ask about removing dents from the front crossmember? That same person said they were working on a tool for this purpose. Well is this what you came up with?
Kevin
Kevin
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Re: Didn't somebody on this board
That is the tool I just ordered - at a somewhat higher price.Terry -
Re: Didn't somebody on this board
Terry, when you use this tool, how about reporting on its effectiveness. I remember that thread generated a fair amount of conversation.
GaryComment
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Re: Didn't somebody on this board
I developed the tool. I have since sold a handful and have been trying to find a reasonable price for it. It has cost me a fair chunk of change to manufacture. I believe the tool works very well. But, the people that need to prove that are the customers. It is a rather fun tool to use because it is very simple and works efficiently. I use a 5/8 fine thread bolt as a screw mechanism to pull the dent out. The rest of the tool is made from 1/2 inch steel and 3/8 inch steel. It is plated to corrosion protection. A 1/2 inch rachet is all that is needed to tighten it. You start by tightening the fixture untill the dent is pulled nearly flat. As the dent pulls nearly flat, the force required to remove the dent increases. You then remove the tool and install the shims as needed to re-concentrate the force to the face of the tool. Most people will find that they will have to pull the face of the dent slightly beyond the normal contour of the crossmember to make it remain in the correct position. It depends on the severity of the dent. I have contacted a catalog company and they will be testing it further in the next couple of weeks. It comes with detailed instructions. Best regards, Terry 21624Comment
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Re: Didn't somebody on this board
If there is that much interest, I may have to escalate my plans to use it. I will post here on the results. I do not have it yet.TerryComment
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Re: Didn't somebody on this board
I fixed mine the old way by welding studs on the frame and useing a peice of pipe and a strong back to pull the dent out. This tool looks much easier, especially if the car is all apart and the frame is upside-down! DavidComment
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Crossmember dent removal tool.
Though you do not need a torch or welder to use it. You can use it with a torch. I only recommend using it on a bare frame though because of the fire potential. You can install the tool and heat the center of the dent to a dull red, remove the torch and start tightening the tool. As the tool becomes harder to tighten, reheat the dent to a dull red working out from the center. Repeat the process working further out from the center untill the dent is gone. Leave the tool in place untill it has cooled completely then remove the tool. Also, all grease and oil must be removed from the area or it will catch fire. Best to do it on cement outside. TerryComment
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Re: Didn't somebody on this board
Something that I forgot to mention is that the shoe portion of the tool is installed through either the left or right spring pocket. The tool is designed to be used with or without a torch so that anyone can use it. But, those that have experience working with a torch and reshaping steel will see the tools advantage especially if working with a bare frame.
In general, the tool is installed, dent is pulled nearly flatt, tool is removed and reinstalled with shims, the dent is pulled slightly past the normal contour of the crossmember. You have to do that because the steel retains its memory of the dent. The tool generates a lot of force. The shims allow the user to concentrate the force over a smaller areas. The tool includes three different size and shaped shims, two each. The shoe portion of the tool is made from 3/8 inch steel and is shaped to the original contour/radius of the crossmember. It is a time consuming part to make for that reason and requires a special machine to consistantly bend it to the correct radius.
The outer bracket/brace is made from 1/2 inch steel. It is designed to sit on the flange just under the upright portion of the top half of the crossmember. It is strongest in that area. It is made/cut to fit the contour of the outside of the crossmember so the forces are distributed evenly. That's it in a nut shell. Regards, TerryComment
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Re: Didn't somebody on this board
Sure beats the heck outta the way that I have repaired them. I would take a cut-off wheel in cut the damaged portion out, repair it on the bench, tig weld it back in, and grind down the weld. About 4-6 hours. I do not know why someone has not come up with this tool before.Dick WhittingtonComment
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Re: Didn't somebody on this board
This sure looks like one of those "why didn't I think of that?" tools.TerryComment
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