Over the past several months, I have posted numerous requests for help in getting the FI unit on my 62 working properly. When I bought the car it was missing the FI unit and I had installed a restored unit. Seems most of the problems that I encountered were ignition related. After I got the ignition straightened out it threw one last vacuum leak at me just for spite. I can finally report that the engine is running like it's supposed to. I had thought to myself that the car really didn't seem to run all that much better than the '61 283/245 that was its predecessor. WRONG! I finally found a strech of road long enough and deserted enough to get a little WOT time on the engine. What a blast!. A 327/360 ought to be illegal in a solid axle chassis. I'm glad it's not, but it still ought to be. Performance is truely amazing. If it could get traction, I'll bet it would give my LS1 a good run up to 100 or so. Anyway, thanks to all for the assistance.
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Re: 62 fuelie
Ed,
Good to here you have your problems solved. You probably didn't notice that I could not offer any advice during your debug period, but I had nothing to offer. I do not post info if I'm not 100% sure of what I'm talking about.
I'm getting ready to add the fuelie unit to my '58, it was originaly a 290Hp FI car. The FI unit is in the hands of John DeGregory, I believe you stated earlier he did your unit as well. Mine is due to be complete this month.
Are there any start-up tips you could lend? This is my first experience with these and I'm trying to cover all bases. Did you bench test it before installing? Any advice will be appreciated.
PS: I'm looking forward to a open stretch of road too!
Mark -
Re: 62 fuelie
Mark, I left it to John to do the bench testing. I think he does a real good job of setting the units up. I do have some suggestions , however. First, be sure the engine is running real well with the carb. I would change plugs and spark plug wires if the ones you have are not pretty new. Check everything out with the carb installed first. Mine was running ok with the carb, but I may have damaged a wire in the process of removing and replacing them. Spark plug wires are fragile. Also, use a good hot plug. I couldn't find any AC 46's, but 45's work ok. Check your vacuum at idle with the carb and let John know what it is. If it is low, he can make some adjustments to compensate. When you do the install, have access to a dial-back timing light. Set total advance to about 36 deg. Don't even bother to check initial timing. Chances are it will be way off the tab anyway. After everything is running ok you may be able to bump this to 38, but watch for signs of detonation.
If everything goes well there are only two adjustments you will need to make, idle speed and idle mixture. John will provide instuctions. Try to only change one thing at a time. Make small adjustments. If things get out of whack, go back to the starting point and begin fresh. If you have to adjust the economy or power stops, keep track of how many 1/2 or 1/4 turns you have made, so you can return to the original setting. Keep John's phone # and email address handy. He's great about "service after the sale". Good luck and let us know how it turns out.Comment
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Re: 62 fuelie
The "all-in" total advance is determined by dynamic compression ratio and my advice is use as little as is necessary for good bottom end torque. You should beware of PREIGNITION when fooling with the timing NOT detonation. There's a difference.
DeGregory is the man with FI rebuilds BUT why be a "wimp" and whine to John with minor problems or adjustments? Spend some time studying and understanding the ST-12 explanation of living with your FI unit. These things are MUCH more simple than a carburetor and basically indestructable. When you have a problem with one, fix the ignition. Just that simple!
Keep the LT-1s at home! Come see me with a big block if ya wanna see some performance out of my 62 FI. I've got the suspension modified so that it hooks up!
Dale.Comment
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Setback Timing Light?
Thanks Ed, my engine runs fine right now with the '914 distributor. I'll check vacuum, it should be OK also, I'm running the correct '097 camshaft.
I'm not familiar with a setback timing light though. I think I understand the concept. The light strobe has an adjustable delay, such that, while revving the engine to create full mechanical advance the timing light would show zero advance at the timing tab.??
So now the big questions, who makes a decent one? Are they outrageously expensive for the hobbiest? Where can I get one?
Thanks and as always, Best Regards.............MarkComment
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Re: Setback Timing Light?
Sears, $69. Also available at most auto parts stores. You assumptions are correct.Comment
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Re: Setback Timing Light?
Ed...just finished my '62 FI(last one made in'62), although John did not restore mine it runs well. The problem I am having is there is not enuff tension on the return spring. I have the rod screwed in all the way in but can't a good strong return....any thoughts? Am having another problem with the clutch...wants to stick when pushed to the floor(seems to be going over center. Have tried to adjust. Anyone having the same problem or a fix?....thanks...jerComment
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Re: 62 fuelie
I'm gettin' there, Dale. Just give me a little time. I have always read that many FI units were eventually discarded and replaced by carbs when ignition problems were the real cause.
You are, of course, correct. Preignition preceeds detonation and that should be the first warning sign.
I ain't messing with your mildly modified 62.Comment
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Another thing
I paid John DeG. a lot of money for that FI unit; he deserves to put up with some whining!!!Comment
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Re: Setback Timing Light?
Jerry, The only thing I can think of is possibly your butterfly or the linkage is binding. On my car when the throttle is closed the throttle arm comes up and touches the LH shielding bracket. You might try disconnecting the linkage from the arm and see if the binding is in the unit or in the linkage. As to your clutch, I used to have a Corvair turbo many,many moons ago that would do this at high RPM. Supposedly due to weak pressure plate springs.Comment
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Dial Back To Zero Light
is what you want to ask for and the Sears unit is a good one. So is Snap-On. You can dial in 36 degrees on the lamp and rev up the motor. The timing marks will agign (zero) at 36 degrees advance. The only way to go!
I installed a roller bearing (very inconspicuous) on the bellcrank of my 1962 FI unit. I also use a second spring for driving. I have absolutely NO problems with this linkage set-up and it's VERY responsive.
I would NEVER use a diaphram type clutch pressure plate. They stick on the floor only to break ankles when they decide to release. I know that you can dickey around with adjustments until you get them working right BUT why not just install a McCloud semi metallic combination Borg-Beck/Long pressure plate in the first place? Also there are other after-market products (Centerforce) that will perform much better that the standard GM pressure plate.
Dale.Comment
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Center Force
is what I put in....love it....thanks for the tip on the roller bearing, I just bought a second spring for driving...off for the "black hats"...Dale...the car is "done...13 months....Comment
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CONGRATULATIONS!
Enjoy!
Dale.Comment
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