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overheating

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  • Merrill Anders 32014

    overheating

    Took original 140,000 mile 327 300 engine out and rebuilt another 327 870 block using 30 over flat aluminium pistons, 350 cam, 1.6 rockers,202 56cc heads (could not find 194's that were not cracked or?) new radiator,clutch fan, 180 thermostat and water pump. Car runs 190 on the highway but in traffic goes up to 220+ and I must shut down.Wants to keep running until I stall it out.No white smoke plugs are burning light gray runs great gets 15 mpg on the highway.Have thought of 7 blade in place of 5 blade fan but do not know what is causing the heat (56cc heads?) or if that will help enough to bring temp back to normal at idle. Suggestions please
  • Ed Jennings

    #2
    Re: overheating

    No mention made of the timing, advance curve, or the presence of a properly operating vacuum advance. Also, what type new radiator? Aluminum? Plate type?
    BTW, have you confirmed that the engine is actually heating? If you installed a new temp sensor with the new engine, it quite possibly is givng a false reading. Give a little more info.

    Comment

    • Duke W.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • January 1, 1993
      • 15645

      #3
      Re: overheating

      Ditto what Ed asked. Also, what's a "350 cam"?

      The majority of overheating problems when the major cooling system components appear to be okay are usually the spark advance map. The OE 300 HP map is good as long as the vacuum can is connected to a full time manifold vacuum source, which should be the case unless it is a '66 to '67 originally built for sale in CA with AIF (or '68 for sale in either CA or 49-states) or a non-AIR car with an incorrect carbuetor that only has a "ported" spark advance signal source.

      Duke

      Comment

      • Merrill Anders 32014

        #4
        overheating

        Stock aluminium radiator 15# cap, used infra red to confirm heat degrees, stock distribitor with electonic module and stock advance all of which was on old engine before change out, 8 degree advance

        Comment

        • Ed Jennings

          #5
          Re: overheating

          The fact that the problem is manafested primarily at idle would point to (a) insufficient airflow, or (b)possibly vacuum advance not working. You mentioned replacing the fan clutch. Most new fan clutches are set to lock up at a higher temp than the old ones. Also, the shrouding for the fan needs to be in place, and any seals the system calls for should be installed. Also, if the water pump is new, is the fan properly positioned in the shroud?, ie approximately half the blade in the shroud.

          Is the vacuum advance working and is it connected to a source of full manifold vacuum? At idle, with the advance connected, I think you should be looking at 22-25 deg total advance. If the cam you installed is a 327/350 or "151" cam, it won't put out the vacuum at idle that the old stock cam did. You need a vacuum can that will give full advance at a couple of inches less vacuum than your usual vacuum at idle.

          Comment

          • Merrill Anders 32014

            #6
            overheating

            Thank you shroud is in place and sealed, fan is in proper location, will check the vacumn info Thank You

            Comment

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