I finally got a chance to look at the 66 and further investigate by muffler mishap.
General concensus was my test plan was sound so here goes the inital results and some interesting findings:
Cyl------------Plug--------Wire (Ohms) Compression (Lbs)
1------------Little Sooty-----1502------------210
3------------Little Sooty-----1425------------215
5------------Little Sooty-----1100------------218
7------------Less Sooty-----1039------------220
2------------Little Sooty-----1421------------206
4------------Greyish/Tan----1264------------210
6------------Little Sooty-----1285------------212
8------------Greyish/Tan----1144------------206
Wire resistance is fairly consistant concidering length of each so I don't think that an issue. Compression is low on a couple of cylinders, but I don't know if I should be alarmed.
The engine was running eratically (similar to an inconsistant mis or multiple cyl. misfiring)at idle. I decided to check the timing. Before removing the vacuum can hose I checked timing with a light. The timing mark was bouncing around at least ten degrees. At that point I diconnected the can and engine smoothed out.
Initial timing was set at apprx. 10 deg so I changed that to 5. The engine still ran smoothly until I connected the can again and it ran erratically.
I connected an old vac can and saw that the rod was indeed moving in and out.
I decided to make a complete check of the dist. and the vac at the intake. Vac at the intake was about 14
When I pulled the dist cap I saw the tab on the rotor button (the one on the outside of the rotor button)was not pointing straight out but at approx a 22 deg angle. The plastic on the side of the tab was broken which allowed it to spin. The rivet was still pretty solid so I straightened the tab and readjusted timing, idle speed and idle air adjudtments.
It seems to run smoothy now even with the can attached. It still seems to run rich however, I think thats attributable to the 3310 carb.
Any and all comments are welcome.
Gary
General concensus was my test plan was sound so here goes the inital results and some interesting findings:
Cyl------------Plug--------Wire (Ohms) Compression (Lbs)
1------------Little Sooty-----1502------------210
3------------Little Sooty-----1425------------215
5------------Little Sooty-----1100------------218
7------------Less Sooty-----1039------------220
2------------Little Sooty-----1421------------206
4------------Greyish/Tan----1264------------210
6------------Little Sooty-----1285------------212
8------------Greyish/Tan----1144------------206
Wire resistance is fairly consistant concidering length of each so I don't think that an issue. Compression is low on a couple of cylinders, but I don't know if I should be alarmed.
The engine was running eratically (similar to an inconsistant mis or multiple cyl. misfiring)at idle. I decided to check the timing. Before removing the vacuum can hose I checked timing with a light. The timing mark was bouncing around at least ten degrees. At that point I diconnected the can and engine smoothed out.
Initial timing was set at apprx. 10 deg so I changed that to 5. The engine still ran smoothly until I connected the can again and it ran erratically.
I connected an old vac can and saw that the rod was indeed moving in and out.
I decided to make a complete check of the dist. and the vac at the intake. Vac at the intake was about 14
When I pulled the dist cap I saw the tab on the rotor button (the one on the outside of the rotor button)was not pointing straight out but at approx a 22 deg angle. The plastic on the side of the tab was broken which allowed it to spin. The rivet was still pretty solid so I straightened the tab and readjusted timing, idle speed and idle air adjudtments.
It seems to run smoothy now even with the can attached. It still seems to run rich however, I think thats attributable to the 3310 carb.
Any and all comments are welcome.
Gary
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