First time buyer...

[Don Becker #41636]

Hi Guys / Gals...

I was bitten with the vette bug about a year ago, joined the NCRS, bought some books and have been lurking around here.

I'm thinking about buying in the next 6 months, but I'm not going to jump on the first thing, I'm wanting to take my time and get the right one.

I'm interested in 74-77 t-top manuals, and am trying to get some advice on the major trouble areas on the cars.

I know to look for poorly repaired fiberglass (by checking the underside), t-top area for rust / poor drainage.

Also, you guys have been doing this for awhile, in your opinion, whats the biggest differences between the 454 and the 350? I'm looking for a daily driver, not a numbers matching car. I'd like to get something I'll keep for awhile and just want to make sure the 350 will be something I'm happy with.

I've looked at lots of ads and it seems like the auto is much more numerous than the manual. I saw a couple ads in my corvette catalogs and I'm guessing 3k or so to replace an auto with a stick, but am wondering if it would be worth the trouble, or should I just hold out for a stick.

I'm thinking I could get something for around 10-12k with not much wrong with it. Please tell me if you think that's unresonable. Has anyone had good experience with Ebay? Body damage/repair isn't an option as I don't have anywhere to work on the body.

I used to own a 66 mustang, so I'm used to working on old cars. I'm also a trained machinist and welder, so I'm pretty good with my hands etc. etc.

Your advice would be greatly appreciated.

-Don #41636

[William C.]

Re: First time buyer...

In general, by '74 the 454 was hot and sucked a lot of gas with only marginal power improvement over the 350. the four speed was about a 15% penetration option in '74, and I certainly would not go to the expense of changing one over, better to ad the money to your original purchase pot and buy a four speed car at a higher price. They are out there, I know I had one in '74.

[Harmon C.]

Re: First time buyer...

The 350 is the best choice. As for four speeds they made a lot more than the numbers you see in the black book as the standard transmission was a 4 speed and no numbers are listed in the black book. They made 32028 coupes 5474 convertibles for a total of 37502 units. 3494 close ratio 4 speeds and 25146 turbo 400's 28640 total, that leaves 8862 regular standard 4 speeds plus the 3494 close ratio for a total of 12365 four speeds made.Thats about 33% and hunt till you find a four speed as to change one over the car will be wrong in many ways. Frame and wiring are different. Learn what the #4 body mount is and how they look when they are not rusted out or the rivets pulled out. This area will tell alot about how the frame will look. Find some corvette person to help you look at a car or hire a pro it will be money well spent.Join an NCRS chapter before you buy and you may find the help you need in your search. Lyle

[Stephen W.]

Re: First time buyer...

Your on the right track for a good value. These years are gaining in popularity but can still be found at a reasonable price. Don't make the mistake of changing over from auto to a stick. The small block would also be my choice. Frame rust is always a major concern as is the rear suspension and brake. I have found several listed for sale by the original owners at reasonable prices.
Good luck in your search.

[Curtis L.]

Re: Lyle

What is #4 body mount and what do you look for. thank you.

[Harmon C.]

Re: Lyle

I look at the sheet metal part of #4 body mount that attaches to the body. It is located high behind the rear wheel where salt from the road in the winter would get splashed. The rivets can be broken off some of the metal gone and in the worst cases rusted off and gone completely. Look on the frame for the mount then above on the body you will see it. I live in salt country so you need not look at many sharks to get the picture. Lyle

[Don Becker #41636]

Re: Lyle

I know that the window pillar area can be bad on these cars with the t-tops.

Is there a way to check this without ripping anything off? I know that the majority of damage is around the window frame, but will there be traces where the t-tops meet the body?

Which books would you guys recommend for me to have the best chance at knowing what I'm looking at and what I'm getting into?

Thanks again!

[Harmon C.]

Re: Lyle

Don You can put your fingers in front of the header molding above the sun visor and feel for silicone never applied at the factoy or rust may fall out. The question is how bad is the rust. Look thru the windshield near the bottom for rust. I think the NCRS store sells a buyers guide. Lyle