C1 transmission change - NCRS Discussion Boards

C1 transmission change

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  • Terry R. Payton

    C1 transmission change

    Going to once again drop the T-10 BW and shelf it - reinstall a "new" Muncie 4-speed Any comments? Anyone been there-done that. Appreciate anyone's experiance and or advice.
  • Pat #25912

    #2
    Re: C1 transmission change

    Not sure I know what you mean by "new" Muncie. There is a transmission mounting adapter plate for BW to Muncie conversion listed in both the C Central and Paragon catalogues. I think you may need the longer speedo cable (from a powerglide?) since the speedo drive is on the pass side of the Muncie. Pat G.

    Comment

    • Terry R. Payton

      #3
      Re: C1 transmission change

      Pat-thankyou for your response. By new I mean no rebuild for me...I'm purchasing a new Muncie. ($$$..not concerned) I'm told the M20 would be the one to get. I'm
      aware of the potential problem with the speedo-not an issue. I guess what I want to hear from others is....they did it (the switch) and it was the best thing they ever did.

      Comment

      • Jim Mitchell

        #4
        Re: C1 transmission change

        If you use the tailshaft housing from an early Muncie, the speedometer cable will not be an issue since it is on the driver's side. I performed the swap you are proposing on a 1961 Corvette back in 1968. Only took a few hours and we were on our way from Arlington, TX to New Jersey.

        Comment

        • Christopher R.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • March 31, 1975
          • 1599

          #5
          Re: C1 transmission change

          1. Depending on which year Muncie you get, you may need a new clutch disk. So most people just do a complete clutch job. Depends on whether the Muncie input shaft is the same as the T10 input shaft. I believe some are (the early ones), and some are not (the later ones).

          2. If you get the one with the speedometer cable output on the driver's side (early ones, I think), your existing speedometer cable will fit. Make sure the speedometer gear in the new Muncie is for your rear end ratio.

          3. You'll need a new driveshaft yoke. U-joint's the same. Make sure you get the Corvette long (5") one. Don't use the short passenger car models.

          4. Pretty sure the factory T10 shifter will bolt on. I know the Hurst one will. I think (not sure) the rods are the same too, except for the reverse rod.

          5. You will need shims between the mount and the frame. Your existing set up should have them. If they don't, Corvette Central carries them. Cheap.

          6. The mount is the same one that 62s use. Corvette Central carries it. Also cheap.

          Comment

          • Dennis A.
            Expired
            • April 30, 1999
            • 1010

            #6
            Re: C1 transmission change

            The Muncie shifter linkage is different from the BW T-10, as stated you will need a transmission mount adapter plate. Which is the same plate used on '62's.

            Comment

            • Mike E.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • February 28, 1975
              • 5136

              #7
              Re: C1 transmission change

              Corvette shifter bolts to Muncie tailhousing and locates perfectly--but does need different set of linkage from shifter to shifting fork bolts.

              Comment

              • David B.
                Very Frequent User
                • July 31, 2004
                • 330

                #8
                Re: C1 transmission change

                I put a muncie m-20 and am happy with it. The original cable works fine on the passenger side if you install a 90 degree dist/tach cable reliever that is designed for the C-3. Put it between the speedo cable and the trans gear. It frees up enough cable to easily reach the speedo. I believe you cannot get a new Muncie anymore. You can get new brand case from another mfgr that is actually stronger than the muncie. You can get new internals for that unit also. I used a 68 and rebuilt it and it runs great. I recommend getting the new "torque-lock" sliders for your unit. The new design makes the Muncie "better than new".
                Dave, 1969 427, 1957
                Previous: 1968 427, 1973 454

                Comment

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