C3 - Are all replacement rally wheels equal?

[Ron J.]

It's time to start looking for new rally wheels to replace my originals that are too warped to be serviceable...causing my teeth to rattle and my brakes to need a weekly bleeding.

Everybody sells them for about $70 - $80. Are that all the same? Is there anything I should look for in a new rim? I'm trying to stay with the rally wheel over going to an aluminum style. Any preferred companies to order from?

Thanks,
Ron
73 L82 Roadster

[Joe L.]

Re: C3 - Are all replacement rally wheels equal?

Ron-----

I believe that all of these wheels on the market are manufactured by Hayes Wheel and are their number 81982. Many of the aftermarket wheel outfits modify these wheels to suit all sorts of different "tastes", but the the basic wheel is still available, as-manufactured.

These wheels can be purchased from a variety of sources and, since the wheels are all the same (but, MAKE SURE when you shop by asking if these are a Hayes Wheel of part number 81982 since it's possible that there are some "foreign repros" out there by now, too), your best bet is to shop around for best price.

You can also purchase these wheel from GM under GM #327708. When you purchase them this way, you usually get a wheel with a tiny "GM" stamp in the area under the hub cap; the non-GM sourced wheels don't have this stamp. Unfortunately, the GM wheel lists for $184.18/each, so it's an expensive little stamp.

While the wheels described, either sourced through Hayes dealers or GM, are virtually identical to the originals, there is a VERY SLIGHT difference with respect to the configuration of the "oval" slots in the wheels. However, the difference is so slight that it could not be discerned without careful, side-by-side comparison with an original wheel. It is EXTREMELY subtle. For a DRIVEN car, NEW wheels are the only way to go. Period.

[Joe L.]

Re: C3 - Are all replacement rally wheels equal?

Ron-----

I believe that all of these wheels on the market are manufactured by Hayes Wheel and are their number 81982. Many of the aftermarket wheel outfits modify these wheels to suit all sorts of different "tastes", but the the basic wheel is still available, as-manufactured.

These wheels can be purchased from a variety of sources and, since the wheels are all the same (but, MAKE SURE when you shop by asking if these are a Hayes Wheel of part number 81982 since it's possible that there are some "foreign repros" out there by now, too), your best bet is to shop around for best price.

You can also purchase these wheel from GM under GM #327708. When you purchase them this way, you usually get a wheel with a tiny "GM" stamp in the area under the hub cap; the non-GM sourced wheels don't have this stamp. Unfortunately, the GM wheel lists for $184.18/each, so it's an expensive little stamp.

While the wheels described, either sourced through Hayes dealers or GM, are virtually identical to the originals, there is a VERY SLIGHT difference with respect to the configuration of the "oval" slots in the wheels. However, the difference is so slight that it could not be discerned without careful, side-by-side comparison with an original wheel. It is EXTREMELY subtle. For a DRIVEN car, NEW wheels are the only way to go. Period.

[Harmon C.]

Re: C3 - Are all replacement rally wheels equal?

Ron I have seen thease wheels being sold with a sloted lug hole to fit 2 bolt patterns so ask before you buy. Lyle

[Harmon C.]

Re: C3 - Are all replacement rally wheels equal?

Ron I have seen thease wheels being sold with a sloted lug hole to fit 2 bolt patterns so ask before you buy. Lyle

[Mike McKown]

Check it out

I went down to Hub Cap Charley to buy a set of rallys a year or so ago. He had Rallys, any size you wanted. Powder coated. Looked good. To the untrained eye, looked like originals. $49.95 each. I turned them down when I looked a little closer and saw the lug nut holes were not stamped round.

I saw similar wheels at a large swap meet a month later. Same crap. These wheels are made off shore somewhere. Two people who have bought them told me they had to take back several wheels in each set they purchased because of lateral and radial runout concerns.

[Mike McKown]

Check it out

I went down to Hub Cap Charley to buy a set of rallys a year or so ago. He had Rallys, any size you wanted. Powder coated. Looked good. To the untrained eye, looked like originals. $49.95 each. I turned them down when I looked a little closer and saw the lug nut holes were not stamped round.

I saw similar wheels at a large swap meet a month later. Same crap. These wheels are made off shore somewhere. Two people who have bought them told me they had to take back several wheels in each set they purchased because of lateral and radial runout concerns.

[Wayne W.]

Re: Check it out

I have had to return a couple because of being out of round. But tell me more about this brake bleeding deal. I have never seen a warped wheel cause the need for brake bleeding.

[Wayne W.]

Re: Check it out

I have had to return a couple because of being out of round. But tell me more about this brake bleeding deal. I have never seen a warped wheel cause the need for brake bleeding.

[Ron J.]

Re: Check it out

My brake problems are caused by the excessive run out from the rims.
When you drill out the rivets on the brake rotor and do not replace them, the rotor relies on the trueness of the rim to keep it from vibrating back and forth...This causes the caliper to take in air, hence my need to bleed them all the time.
I'm not sure if newer calipers have the same problem.

I'm not sure if this completely makes sense...There are quite a few historical posts that describe the excessive run out.

[Ron J.]

Re: Check it out

My brake problems are caused by the excessive run out from the rims.
When you drill out the rivets on the brake rotor and do not replace them, the rotor relies on the trueness of the rim to keep it from vibrating back and forth...This causes the caliper to take in air, hence my need to bleed them all the time.
I'm not sure if newer calipers have the same problem.

I'm not sure if this completely makes sense...There are quite a few historical posts that describe the excessive run out.

[Wayne W.]

Re: Check it out

Sorry, but that just aint so. Yes the rotor will cause runnout that will cause brake problems, but the trueness of the wheel will not affect the brakes at all. Are you sure that you have rim problems or are you searching for a cure to your runnout problem, cause you are still going to have that when you get your new wheels on.

[Wayne W.]

Re: Check it out

Sorry, but that just aint so. Yes the rotor will cause runnout that will cause brake problems, but the trueness of the wheel will not affect the brakes at all. Are you sure that you have rim problems or are you searching for a cure to your runnout problem, cause you are still going to have that when you get your new wheels on.

[Ron J.]

Re: Check it out

I'm no expert but, my runout problems started shortly after i drilled my rivets out in prep for the new rotors.
I'm just trying to eliminate all of the possibilities.

[Ron J.]

Re: Check it out

I'm no expert but, my runout problems started shortly after i drilled my rivets out in prep for the new rotors.
I'm just trying to eliminate all of the possibilities.