My Bone Head Move Of The Week

[Chuck R.]

Notice that I allow myself weekly opportunites

Don't let this happen to you when working on trailing arms.

I got so wrapped up in breaking down both trailing arm assemblies cleaning them up nice and pretty, and installing both sets at the same time, I pulled a switcharoo and never caught it until I hit the wall!

When you re-install the bearing support assemblies, make sure that the ear with the flat spot for the shock/strut rod mount bolt is to the rear of the trailing arm. They will mount up just fine (as I found out) on either side.

Yep, I had to completely tear down both assemblies, pre-load both bearing sets all over again and re-install.

Talk about one step forward and three steps back!

I'm getting REAL good at trailing arm re-builds though.

Just thought I'd share this and make everyone's day.

And yes I'm still smiling

God I love this car!!!!!!

Chuckster the Yuckster 32205

[Wayne K.]

Thanks for sharing and making me feel normal.

Chuck,

I always hate doing the same job twice but I tell myself that practice makes perfect as a way to justify my faults. Keep smiling.

Wayne

[Chuck R.]

Re: The way I figure it Wayne

If I laugh out loud at myself every time I screw up, my neighbors are going to be in for a real treat before too too long

[Timothy B.]

Re: The way I figure it Wayne

Chuck, I bet there's not a one out there who hasn't done something like this...:-)

By the way, sounds like you did the bearing r&r work yourself? Had you done it before? What are your thoughts on do it yourself bearings versus sending to one of the shops like Van Steel? Did you buy the specialized tools or rent/borrow them? I need to do this job on my 67 and I keep putting it off, and I'm still undecided about tacking it myself or not.

THanks!

[Wayne M.]

Can't you just switch the entire assembly ?

Without removing the spindle from the support ? The only complicated part is removing/installing the emergency brake shoes, to get access to the 4 bolts holding the support to the trailing arm. Slide off the inside half-shaft flange and the whole assy. pulls off the arm.

Hope I'm not missing something here.

[Wayne M.]

Ignore stupid "switch" advice (directly above)

Should'a looked at the parts before putting fingers in motion. Of course, you have to pull the spindle out of the spindle support because the dust shield and rear caliper mount are RH/LH specific. Sorry

[Joe C.]

Re: The way I figure it Wayne

I probably built my car 6 times by now........isn't it fun! How did you set the bearing clearances? I was lucky enough to have a very kind fellow from the Del Val chapter loan me his Kent Moore tooling.

BTW: Set the clearances to the very minimum. You can safely go to .0005". You can always shave some material from the spacer shims to fine tune. Only be sure to use a micrometer to get a uniform thickness all around.

[Dick W.]

Re: My Bone Head Move Of The Week

You mean that I am not the only one that has ever done that?

Trickie Dickie

[Chuck R.]

Re: The way I figure it Wayne

I made a setup tool from a trashed spindle from a fire wreck I picked up for parts.

I turned the bearing shoulder surfaces down until I had a slip fit just loose enough to slide the bearings on and off. It worked like a charm, I was able to get the tollerances down to .002 and .001

I didn't realize though that I would be using the danm thing more than twice

Had about eight hours per side invested from tear down, media blasting, paint and re-assembly.

The next time knowing what I know now, I can say with certanty that I could pull another re-build off in probably four hours or less now that the big stuff is out of the way (media blasting etc.).

Factored into the eight hours, was fabrication of components to assist in the re-builds such as a compressor for the trailing arm bushings, flaring tip for my press, combination puller setup for popping off the outter spindle bearing and spindle flange etc.

One thing I created that help me out enormously was a U shaped spacer out of flat stock to fill in the air gap between the two walls of the trailing arm. This helped me to avoid collapsing the tube when I pressed the front torque bushings in place.

I hafta emphasise that it's a chore that you can't fudge through and think close enough is good enough!

A poor bearing setup WILL come back to haunt you big time.

If you have the patience, tools and time, it's not that daunting a task but time consuming the first time through.

I see now why Bair's charge what they do and guarantee the work to boot!

Sorry for the long winded orration, but those who know me also know that the only way to shut me up sometimes is by handing me a cold one

Chuckster 32205