Went to open the doors this weekend on the 78SA I just purchased to move it to my garage to start the restore. Unfortunately, the key did not release the lock mechanism and the doors remained locked. Previous owner told me that he disconnected the battery when he parked the car two years ago. Must the battery be connected to unlock the doors? If so, how can I gain access under the hood to reconnect the battery cables?
-
-
Re: Electric Door Locks
try to unlock the other side. Batt does not have to be attached to unlock doorsBill Clupper #618 -
Re: Electric Door Locks
As stated, the battery doesn't need to be connected to use open the doors either from the outside or with the PDL (the battery is actually in the compartment behind the driver's seat.) However, these old lock mechanisms do have a habit of coming apart inside the door. There was a good article in the Corvette Restorer in the last year or two on how to unlatch the door if you're locked out this way (I believe it was for a '78 too.)
If you still can't get in, I'm sure someone can e-mail the article to you.
Good luck!Comment
-
Re: Electric Door Locks
If the passenger door lock and all other ideas fail, give me a call and I can detail how I went about using a steel rod to unlatch a t-top. Too lengthy for me to enter here at this time. Maybe I'll have time to post some other time. Anyway, if you need to resort to this, give my cell a call at 513-379-8164.Comment
-
Re: Electric Door Locks
I did speak with John and he gave me a different angle to approach gaining access to the interior compartment. I belive the article you're referencing here is in the Spring '01 Issue of the Restorer and it's titled "LOCKED OUT AND CAN'T GET IN?". Does anyone have a copy of it?Comment
-
Re: Electric Door Locks
John, went to a 3/16" round steel rod and it worked great. Thanks for the tip.Comment
-
Re: Electric Door Locks
Glad you got in Bob. For anyone wondering, since this has now worked for two people, I'll post the lengthy description of one way to get into a locked C3, in case anyone needs the idea for the future.
Since weatherstripping tends to shrink over time, there is usually a small hole at the bottom-back corner of at least one of the windows. You can put a steel rod through there and pull down the T-top lever. The rod needs to be about 3/16" or 1/4". Use lots of duct tape around the hole to keep from scratching the paint or glass. Get the best measurement you can on the distance from the hole to about 1" overlapping the tip of the T-tp lever and bend the rod 90 degrees at this point. Then bend it another 90 degrees about 3 inches further down the rod. You are shooting for something that looks like this from one angle:
______
|______
Should look like a crank, as in the pedal crank on a bike, without the actual pedals installed. It should also look like a wide "V" from the other viewpoint. Also, make sure the end going into the car has a nice round, smoot end. I had the end come off the lever a couple of times and bang the window. Don't want to risk scratches...Comment
Comment