60 headlights & Battery

[Jerry Weldon]

I am told by the local chapter that I should replace the headlight and battery in my 60 prior to judging. Is it as simple as buying the products form C Central or other place? Are there additional issues. Last Friday someone tlked about a Tar battery vs. a simple replacement. Also they told me that buying lights would get me a DOT type lamp. What does this mean? I appreciate the help from this forum.

Jerry

[Bill W.]

Re: 60 headlights & Battery

Howdy Jerry,

If your intent is to have the car judged by the NCRS, and you want to maximize your score, you need parts that conform to the JG guidelines. I'd start by deciding what I wanted to do with the car. You will spend less money and have less frustration if you pick the path you want to follow and stick with it, as opposed to switching goals after you began to purchase parts.

You ask in your post about lights, correct lights are as close as your nearest junkyard. Cost about 2-3 dollars each. New "over the counter" lights have a "D.O.T." identifer cast into them that will cost you judging points. There are "tar top" batteries available for 125-145 dollars that are correct for your car.

You have made the right move by joining NCRS, now decide what you want to do with your car, members of this board will help answer all the questions they can. Bill

[Bill W.]

Re: 60 headlights & Battery

Howdy Jerry,

If your intent is to have the car judged by the NCRS, and you want to maximize your score, you need parts that conform to the JG guidelines. I'd start by deciding what I wanted to do with the car. You will spend less money and have less frustration if you pick the path you want to follow and stick with it, as opposed to switching goals after you began to purchase parts.

You ask in your post about lights, correct lights are as close as your nearest junkyard. Cost about 2-3 dollars each. New "over the counter" lights have a "D.O.T." identifer cast into them that will cost you judging points. There are "tar top" batteries available for 125-145 dollars that are correct for your car.

You have made the right move by joining NCRS, now decide what you want to do with your car, members of this board will help answer all the questions they can. Bill

[Jack H.]

Amen, Bill!

Mr. Wilheim gives you solid advice, but I'll add on. The T3 headlights you find at scrap yards for the $2-3 Bill mentions are real McCoy originals. As such, they're used and the balance of their effective service life will be 'iffy'.

There are several styles of T3 quad beams and to be 'correct' for your '60, you need those with the clear background in the triangle surrounding the T3. Low beams in good shape will be harder to come by than high beams (they got used more). Junkology 101 says keep your eyes peeled for the 'prima dona' donor cars (Olds Toronado, Caddy Eldorado, Buick Riveria) who featured folding door headlamp systems.

These tend to have lamps in better condition (protected from road debris) and judges WILL inspect your car's equipment for both originality as well as condition. Chips and abbrasion in the glass lens garner deductions.

Also, check the top inside surface for 'Edison effect' darkening. As there is no 'third wire/ground' to collect stray electrons from the filament (like in a vacuum tube) heat rises and the top of the bulbs show a natural darkening of the glass deterioration that judges will look for as a sign of age/wear. Stay away from any bulbs that exhibit a whitening effect. This indicates atmospheric leakage and odds are good they'll not last long.

On the battery, the same story. You can buy a reproduction tar top from a number of sources. It will judge properly, but, Catch-22, it's an authentic reproduction of then current battery technology repleat with all the foibles of low cranking power and the need to maintain (charge and water level check of all cells periodically). You'll get a healthy 'partial credit' score on the judging field if you sport a contemporary Delco Freedom battery that'll deliver superior driving and life characteristics as it represents a 'proper' GM service replacement.

Choice is yours. You can obtain 'correct' original/reproduction parts, but if your main objective is to drive the car and show it once in a while you need to think through the tradeoffs of concours scoring vs. cost and performance/reliability.

[Jack H.]

Amen, Bill!

Mr. Wilheim gives you solid advice, but I'll add on. The T3 headlights you find at scrap yards for the $2-3 Bill mentions are real McCoy originals. As such, they're used and the balance of their effective service life will be 'iffy'.

There are several styles of T3 quad beams and to be 'correct' for your '60, you need those with the clear background in the triangle surrounding the T3. Low beams in good shape will be harder to come by than high beams (they got used more). Junkology 101 says keep your eyes peeled for the 'prima dona' donor cars (Olds Toronado, Caddy Eldorado, Buick Riveria) who featured folding door headlamp systems.

These tend to have lamps in better condition (protected from road debris) and judges WILL inspect your car's equipment for both originality as well as condition. Chips and abbrasion in the glass lens garner deductions.

Also, check the top inside surface for 'Edison effect' darkening. As there is no 'third wire/ground' to collect stray electrons from the filament (like in a vacuum tube) heat rises and the top of the bulbs show a natural darkening of the glass deterioration that judges will look for as a sign of age/wear. Stay away from any bulbs that exhibit a whitening effect. This indicates atmospheric leakage and odds are good they'll not last long.

On the battery, the same story. You can buy a reproduction tar top from a number of sources. It will judge properly, but, Catch-22, it's an authentic reproduction of then current battery technology repleat with all the foibles of low cranking power and the need to maintain (charge and water level check of all cells periodically). You'll get a healthy 'partial credit' score on the judging field if you sport a contemporary Delco Freedom battery that'll deliver superior driving and life characteristics as it represents a 'proper' GM service replacement.

Choice is yours. You can obtain 'correct' original/reproduction parts, but if your main objective is to drive the car and show it once in a while you need to think through the tradeoffs of concours scoring vs. cost and performance/reliability.