Ok, trailing Arm 101 questions

[Chuck R.]

First, I'm close to re-assembling the trailing arms and can't quite come to grips with the spindle outter grease seal installation process.

My shop manual doesn't touch base as to just when you seat the seal, just referencing making sure I have it in place on the spindle prior to pressing on the outter bearing. There's not a whole lotta room to set the seal into the housing once the outter bearing is set. Am I missing something?

All I need is the sequence of events, and I will be good to go.

Second, when pressing in the torque bushings, should I create spanners out of flat stock to prevent the bushings from squeezing the arms together when pressed in as a precaution?

Thanks for the help,

Chuck

[Mike M.]

Re: Ok, trailing Arm 101 questions

Chuck: my method of replacing spindle bearings, races and seals is controversial but here goes. after disassembly, i set the spindle up in a lathe and turn the spindle till the inner and outer bearings are a semi-loose friction fit. then i install both races in the spindle housing. then do a trial assembly of all but the seals to determine the thickness of shim needed with the new bearings(almost never the same shim as was present before you started. method to determine thickness of new shim outlined in shop manual).After i've determined the shim thickness, them install outer bearing in the spindle housing then install the outer seal in spindle housing. then slip the spindle thru the outer seal and outer bearing then slip inner bearing on spindle then install inner seal. early 63 vettes had loose fitting bearings on their spindles. sure makes for easier disassembly every 25k miles to re-lubricate the bearings. mike

[Jim T.]

Re: Ok, trailing Arm 101 questions

Having only actual experience on my 68 and 70's rear wheel bearings I agree with all that Mike written. If the rotor is riveted to the spindle on disc bake Vettes I see no way to seat the outer seal properly if you put the seal on the spindle first and press on the bearing and install the assembly. I do know it sure helps to have the proper tools for rear wheel bearing maint. Have not replaced the bushings.

[Joe L.]

Re: Ok, trailing Arm 101 questions

Chuck------

The procedure for the outer seal is, in simplified form, as follows:

1) Install fully packed bearing in the outer race;

2) Install and seat grease seal;

3) Press the spindle THROUGH the installed bearing and seat it fully.

As an alternate to the above, the spindle can be PULLED THROUGH the bearing by using Kent-Moore tool J-24490

There is no need to fabricate and/or use any "spanners" for the trailing arm bushing installation. The bushing outer shells on either side will "bottom" against one another and prevent any distortion of the trailing arm in the installation process.

[Chuck R.]

Re: Ok, trailing Arm 101 questions

That was my train of thought as well, put it all together and THEN set the bearing in place on the spindle.

Wish I had my lathe I sold off before I joined Uncle Sam's team back in the eighties. Goverment surplus and man was it sweet with a thirty six inch bed!

Turning the spindle a tad would indeed make re-assembly easier Mike.

Joe, I was more concerned about the bushings pushing the arm in as it was being pressed in, but it sounds like it should slide in with a minimum of restriction anyway.

Excellent feedback Gents I'll put it to work this weekend (wife permitting )

Thanks,

Chuck

[Michael H.]

Re: Ok, trailing Arm 101 questions

Actually, you should only slip-fit the inner bearing. The bearings were switched to press fit for a very good reason, lots of slip-fit outer bearings were burning up. The inner bearing doesn't carry anywear near the load that the outer bearing does, and can be slip-fit without any problem. The press fit inner bearing is what prevents easy spindle assembly, machine it to slip-fit and you'll never have trouble disassembling the rear spindle again.

[Mike Cobine]

Re: Ok, trailing Arm 101 questions

Chuck, be careful on turning the spindle. There is a very fine line between "enough" and "too much". You can probably polish it out on a lathe enough to get the results you need.

27 years ago I was going through these very problems and trying to find a solution.

The press fit Chevy used was an easy solution to their problem. A slip or loose fit, similar to front wheel bearings, becomes our problem. I have never dealt with early '63 so I don't know how loose they were.

Mike mentioned a friction fit. It is very important that the bearing fit snug to slightly tight on the spindle. DO NOT MAKE IT A SLIP FIT. It just doesn't have to be 80 ton press tight, just tight enough it won't spin on the shaft. If it spins, it will heat the shaft and heat the bearing and fail in a very short time.

Good luck.

[Chuck R.]

Re: Thanks for the heads up

I know all too well the fine line between just right, too much or too little.

As I no longer possess my lathe, I will be forced to press both bearings in place anyway.

I made a setup tool out of a spent spindle and found out just how little meat had to be removed to get the ever so slight friction fit.

Too close to gamble just by eye balling, so I figure the next time they need to be rebuilt, my six year old Grandson will be husky enough to do it for ole Bumpa

Thanks one and all for the feedback, I'll give a heads up on my "Shade Tree" results.

Chuck

[Warren L.]

jurst right or too little

Bearings have a plus or minus when they are manufactured, spindles vary a bit as well. I would leave the spindles as they are size wise and get set up to dissassemble them or have someone with the tools do it.

Warren

[Chuck R.]

Re: jurst right or too little

It's gonna be just me and mister twenty ton press against the spindles.

And I can guarantee you that they'll go in one way or the other!

I appreciate the great feedback as usual.

Chuck