Trailering Tips for a Midyear

[Jeff Florek]

I'm in the process of purchasing an enclosed trailer for my '66 convertible. The trailer will have four D-ring anchors for the corners. I have been looking into tie down straps, and axle straps to secure the car.

Does anyone have any tips on the proper way(s) to tie down the car to prevent unwanted body stress? Help with proper combinations of straps and specific points on the chassis to secure would be helpful.

[Gene M.]

Re: Trailering Tips for a Midyear

JEFF,

I lock my cars down against permanent mounted wheel calks in the front, using straps thru the A-arms not crossed to the floor anchors. In the rear I cross the straps to controll side to side movement secured thru the spindle support at the shock mount. Front wheel calks are curved to match the tire for maximum contact with tire to controll against sliding.

[Gene M.]

Re: Trailering Tips for a Midyear

JEFF,

I lock my cars down against permanent mounted wheel calks in the front, using straps thru the A-arms not crossed to the floor anchors. In the rear I cross the straps to controll side to side movement secured thru the spindle support at the shock mount. Front wheel calks are curved to match the tire for maximum contact with tire to controll against sliding.

[Jack H.]

Re: Trailering Tips for a Midyear

I suggest you buy a set of tire nets (JC Whitney as well as many trailer accessory shops). These wrap over the top of your tires and suck the wheels to the trailer floor.

When you attach to frame/suspension, you effectively construct a compound shock absorber (the trailer's suspension AND the cars). If you don't let the car 'float' on its own suspension, you 'can' cause subtle damage (frame flexing and stressing body). My '65 has about 300 miles on the odo but almost 20K miles being trailered and before I changed to a tire net setup, I discovered minor stress cracks starting to show in the 'typical' places....

Next, odds aren't real good that the D-rings installed by trailer mfgr are going to be in optimum position. Trick is to load the car and move it back & forth measuring tongue weight vs. position. You want a modest tongue weight (see your hitch specs) and don't want to go 'tail heavy'. Once you've optimized the car's position inside the trailer, you're ready to consider its tie down points.

Last, some options reduce curb height and affect placement of the floor attachments and chord/cable routing. Side exhaust is one. If you want a system that accommodates more than one car (resale), plan on constructing the tie down setup for worst case. You might have to build extra cable/chord routers in to keep proper clearance.

[Jack H.]

Re: Trailering Tips for a Midyear

I suggest you buy a set of tire nets (JC Whitney as well as many trailer accessory shops). These wrap over the top of your tires and suck the wheels to the trailer floor.

When you attach to frame/suspension, you effectively construct a compound shock absorber (the trailer's suspension AND the cars). If you don't let the car 'float' on its own suspension, you 'can' cause subtle damage (frame flexing and stressing body). My '65 has about 300 miles on the odo but almost 20K miles being trailered and before I changed to a tire net setup, I discovered minor stress cracks starting to show in the 'typical' places....

Next, odds aren't real good that the D-rings installed by trailer mfgr are going to be in optimum position. Trick is to load the car and move it back & forth measuring tongue weight vs. position. You want a modest tongue weight (see your hitch specs) and don't want to go 'tail heavy'. Once you've optimized the car's position inside the trailer, you're ready to consider its tie down points.

Last, some options reduce curb height and affect placement of the floor attachments and chord/cable routing. Side exhaust is one. If you want a system that accommodates more than one car (resale), plan on constructing the tie down setup for worst case. You might have to build extra cable/chord routers in to keep proper clearance.