I would appreciate some tips from some of the pros we have on this board, regarding the proper method of using an electric buufer. I know that you have to keep the buffer moving so you don't burn the paint, but I would appreciate some advice from the experts on the tricks of the trade as it were. How much pressure, how to avoid swirl marks etc. Thanks and best wishes to all for a happy holiday season. len 39247
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Re: Buffing Tips
If you are just using it for waxing, I use an orbital buffer. They are much easier to use and the chances of doing something wrong are minimal. I don't apply any pressure at all, the weight of the buffer is sufficient. You can move it quickly across the surface of the car as the machine works fast. I have not had a problem with paint damage or swirl marks. -
Re: Buffing Tips
Len,
First of all, are refering to the big Black and Decker buffer used by all professional automotive refinishers or those electric orbital things. The Black and Decker is for professional use only and would not be recommended for the occasional finish job. The electric orbital thing would not be recommended for rubbing out a paint job. Too light duty
Go to an automotive paint supply house and purchase yourself an air buffer where you can control the RPM. Buy the 3M foam pads for both cutting and polishing along with the proper grit to do the job. There was an excellent post this week on the grits and polishing media used to finish either laquer or BCCC to a mirror finish.
Also, ask the professional at the paint supply house for their recommendation. They are current on all the latest pads and polishing media available in your area.
Good luck and go slow. You'll end up with a beautiful and durable finish.
Regards,
JRComment
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Re: Buffing Tips
sounds like this is first time , be prepared , do one panel at a time are you compounding ? use qa white or fine , since it is your first. the buffer should be 2000 rpm or used at aprox this range , tape all the seams with 3/4 " masking tape , it keeps the seam clean and you off the edge. best to buff under florecsent lighting , it will show you the imperfections, work out of the sun / direct heat, thats a start go slow and use a bit of water to cut the compound in the end , you may wish to take this to a body shop and have it done , sanded and polished by a pro or you may learn the hard way , you really should be taught correctly , it is a trade and takes time to develop ,this may not be the answer you wanted but it is good advice ,, once compounded and cleaned, seal this with a wax of quality. read and ask alot and watch othersComment
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Re: Buffing Tips
Len
If your rubbing out a new paint job, regardless of the type, be careful you could ruin hours of hard work. If your inclinded to give it a shot and you have an electric buffing wheel: 1) Use the weight of the buffer only, and pressure you apply will most likely burn the paint. 2) ALWAYS KEEP IN MIND THE DIRECTION IN WHICH THE WHEEL IS TURNING. This will help you avoid burning edges, door and hood gaps etc. Keep the wheel spinning OFF the edge, not toward it. 3) Use the trigger of the wheel to keep moderate the speed, don't worry about burning out the motor, my wheel is 20 years old and works great. As you approach edges and gaps you should slow down the speed. 4) Depending on the age of the paint and your faith in its adhesion, you can use some blue tape on the edges and or gaps to prevent burning them, DON'T LEAVE THE TAPE ON FOR PROLONGED PERIODS and remove it carefully. I wash the car between all stages of buffing and blow the car after towel drying for the glaze and wax stages. 5) Buff in sections and DON'T do it in the sun and DON'T leave the material on a section unless your going to spread it out quickly, this stuff will stain the finish if left for long periods of time.
If your car needs buffing, its best left for someone who has lots of experience, especially if the paint is older. I hope this helps, just some highlights.
All the best
RichComment
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Re: Buffing Tips
Len - I would read carefully what Rich has posted. Good advice. At this time my only addition would be this. Wet sand with 1500 - 2000 grit until the paint surface is "flat". Then use only what they refer to as a swirl mark remover for a buffing compound. At this point, all you need to do with the buffer is remove the scratches you caused with the 1500/2000. If you arn't familiar with "flat", talk to me. There is a learning process involved. I only screwed up about 2 paint jobs I did before I learned. If it was easy, Earl Shieb (?) would be doing them for $149.95 Best, DennisComment
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Re: Buffing Tips
len- i would read carefully what Dennis has posted. good advice. At this time my only addition would be this--took dipstick 22 paint jobs before he got it right(if i knew how to do a funny face , i would) Seriously, all good advice up till now. mikeComment
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Re: Buffing Tips
Thanks everyone for the replies. I appreciate your comments and will definitely seek professional assisatnce on this project. Happy Holidays to ALL. lenComment
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Re: Buffing Tips
Mike,
The thing about DC is that he did eventually learn...wish we could say that about "some" people...
Because you've taught me a thing or two, here is a tip on the funny face.
type : and D together without a space between them. Make sure there is at least one empty space before the :
see what ya get...Comment
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