I am having problems with my LS5 4sd shifting into 2nd gear. Ihave tried the ideas posted here with marginal success. It is better by adjusting the clutch to catch higher on the peddle. My question is how do I adjust the 1st and 2nd gear shifter rods? This is my last resort before pulling the trans and spending a whole lot of money that was planned for new leather seats
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Re: 71 4sd shifter adjustment
O.K. Morgan, here's your last chance to still get those leather seatcovers. There is only one trans. lever and rod for 1st and 2nd gear; it's the inboard rod, and the rearmost lever on the sidecover (the only one with a clevis and pin). I'll quote the steps from the AIM for a '65, as the principle is the same for a '71 (I hope). It's best to use a locating gauge (strip of steel) 0.625" wide x 0.035" thick by roughly 3" long, to hold the shift lever in true neutral position in the shifter bracket assembly while you adjust the clevis. Or, if you can remove shifter boot from inside, you can visually ensure that all the moving and static parts line up with the 5/8 inch "slot". The shift lever "nose" should travel freely in this channel in the left/right direction (from pre-select postion for reverse to 1-2 shift to 3-4).
Remove clevis and rod from 1-2 trans lever at the shifter side cover. With locating gauge in place (or everything in slot lined up) put the clevis back on the trans lever, and check if the clevis pin passes freely through the holes. If not, Back off jam nut from clevis and rotate forward or back on the rod until the pin slides easily through the holes. Tighten the jam to the clevis. Remove locating gauge and check shift action. Fine tune on clevis if necessary.
I'd suggest you check the 3-4 and reverse alignments while you're in there. Also, make sure you put the clevis back on the same hole (upper or lower) on the lever. You wouldn't want 1-2 shift on short throw, and 3-4 on wide. -
Re: 71 4sd shifter adjustment
O.K. Morgan, here's your last chance to still get those leather seatcovers. There is only one trans. lever and rod for 1st and 2nd gear; it's the inboard rod, and the rearmost lever on the sidecover (the only one with a clevis and pin). I'll quote the steps from the AIM for a '65, as the principle is the same for a '71 (I hope). It's best to use a locating gauge (strip of steel) 0.625" wide x 0.035" thick by roughly 3" long, to hold the shift lever in true neutral position in the shifter bracket assembly while you adjust the clevis. Or, if you can remove shifter boot from inside, you can visually ensure that all the moving and static parts line up with the 5/8 inch "slot". The shift lever "nose" should travel freely in this channel in the left/right direction (from pre-select postion for reverse to 1-2 shift to 3-4).
Remove clevis and rod from 1-2 trans lever at the shifter side cover. With locating gauge in place (or everything in slot lined up) put the clevis back on the trans lever, and check if the clevis pin passes freely through the holes. If not, Back off jam nut from clevis and rotate forward or back on the rod until the pin slides easily through the holes. Tighten the jam to the clevis. Remove locating gauge and check shift action. Fine tune on clevis if necessary.
I'd suggest you check the 3-4 and reverse alignments while you're in there. Also, make sure you put the clevis back on the same hole (upper or lower) on the lever. You wouldn't want 1-2 shift on short throw, and 3-4 on wide.Comment
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PS
'71 Chassis Service Manual takes you through this step by step with pictures. Also gives dimensions for cutting your own alignment tool. Tool is VERY handy for first time folks, but experienced pros simply make throw adjustments by hand, by 'feel'. Last, changing fore/aft engagement will interact with lateral throw adjust. Might find it works nice 1st->2nd but 'sticks' in gate during 2nd->3rd movement.Comment
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PS
'71 Chassis Service Manual takes you through this step by step with pictures. Also gives dimensions for cutting your own alignment tool. Tool is VERY handy for first time folks, but experienced pros simply make throw adjustments by hand, by 'feel'. Last, changing fore/aft engagement will interact with lateral throw adjust. Might find it works nice 1st->2nd but 'sticks' in gate during 2nd->3rd movement.Comment
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