I would like to know what the correct alternator number is for a 68 427/390? The guide list two: 1100693 37amps B code:CB and 1100696 42amps B code:CS. What is the right alternator that I need? I have no air.I have PS PB. I do not know if I have the TI that the book calls for.(transistor ignition??) jc
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Re: Alternator ##'s 68??
'696' alternator is always a toughie to find as it was used with TI ignition since '64. If you find a source for an original, be prepared to bend over. Most of the reputable alt restoration sources have a waiting list for this item.
The other SB be easy to find as it was relatively common to other Chevy cars of the era. Scrap yards typically strip and 'bin' alternators off incoming cars for local rebuilders. If you don't mind getting your hands dirty (and back strained), most will let you sort through their alt core bins (usually 50-gal oil drums) and that way you can dig up an untouched original.
Another alternative is to pull out the yellow pages and call around for local alt rebuild shops. Check what they've got that has NOT been rebuilt. Last, you can't miss and won't get your hands dirty by contacting John Pirkle or Briggs who advertize in Driveline for a complete turn-key.
As far as whether your car has/had TI or not, geeze, Chester, this is your call. Look for the telltale signs (amp wiring harness, mounting holes for the TI amp box, lack of firewall holes where the ignition ballast resistor would mount) then consult the prior owner history you've amassed to support your restoration and see what it tells you about the car's original configuration.... -
Re: Alternator ##'s 68??
'696' alternator is always a toughie to find as it was used with TI ignition since '64. If you find a source for an original, be prepared to bend over. Most of the reputable alt restoration sources have a waiting list for this item.
The other SB be easy to find as it was relatively common to other Chevy cars of the era. Scrap yards typically strip and 'bin' alternators off incoming cars for local rebuilders. If you don't mind getting your hands dirty (and back strained), most will let you sort through their alt core bins (usually 50-gal oil drums) and that way you can dig up an untouched original.
Another alternative is to pull out the yellow pages and call around for local alt rebuild shops. Check what they've got that has NOT been rebuilt. Last, you can't miss and won't get your hands dirty by contacting John Pirkle or Briggs who advertize in Driveline for a complete turn-key.
As far as whether your car has/had TI or not, geeze, Chester, this is your call. Look for the telltale signs (amp wiring harness, mounting holes for the TI amp box, lack of firewall holes where the ignition ballast resistor would mount) then consult the prior owner history you've amassed to support your restoration and see what it tells you about the car's original configuration....Comment
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PS
PS, read the JG well with respect to style of front case (air inlet, fan construction, pulley) if you've a mind to explore the scrap yard alternative....Comment
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PS
PS, read the JG well with respect to style of front case (air inlet, fan construction, pulley) if you've a mind to explore the scrap yard alternative....Comment
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Re: Alternator ##'s 68??
chester,
Jack has provided all the solid info that you need, but your decision will hinge on your TI as far as what is "correct" for your 427/390.
I've got a 68 TI and a 696 with a Dec 67 build date, which according to ONE resource "isn't known to exist". As Jack mentioned, "be prepared". If your engine has TI now, the 696 is correct. If doesn't and never did, the 693 is correct. If it had TI originally, but not now, then it's your choice what way to go.
TI is pretty easy to recognize. If you have further problems with the ID, post-up again. Best wishes. Tom #24014Comment
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Re: Alternator ##'s 68??
chester,
Jack has provided all the solid info that you need, but your decision will hinge on your TI as far as what is "correct" for your 427/390.
I've got a 68 TI and a 696 with a Dec 67 build date, which according to ONE resource "isn't known to exist". As Jack mentioned, "be prepared". If your engine has TI now, the 696 is correct. If doesn't and never did, the 693 is correct. If it had TI originally, but not now, then it's your choice what way to go.
TI is pretty easy to recognize. If you have further problems with the ID, post-up again. Best wishes. Tom #24014Comment
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Re: Alternator ##'s 68??
thanks, the TI is still a mistory to me, I need to find someone in Ohio to assist with that call.I found someone in the Driveline, for about $90-95. Seems resonable for any part these days. The date is three months prior to my build date, is that in line? january and mine car is April?? will this work? jcComment
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Re: Alternator ##'s 68??
thanks, the TI is still a mistory to me, I need to find someone in Ohio to assist with that call.I found someone in the Driveline, for about $90-95. Seems resonable for any part these days. The date is three months prior to my build date, is that in line? january and mine car is April?? will this work? jcComment
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Re: Alternator ##'s 68??
chester,
I'm losing something in the translation here, this just got kinda fuzzy for me. I'll post-up what I think you're asking and, if you need to, then come back and help straighten out my thinking.
I think you are asking about an alternator, build date 3 months prior to your car's assembly, priced at $90-95. As far as the date: yes that would be acceptable. As far as the price, I don't know exactly what you're getting: new?, NOS?, rebuilt?, used? Chester, please listen: Use an expert here. It will cost you a little more, but unless you burn the thing up yourself, you'll be money ahead. One reference Jack mentioned, and I have used, is John Pirkle at Augusta, Georgia. He's listed on page 9 of the May-June Driveline.
I'm not clear about your "assistance" you mention for the TI. Is this a previous owner, or are you looking for someone to help you check in person? I'm concerned about you calling, ordering, or buying anything (from anyone) until you know this needed this information:
TI will require that you use a (higher) 42 amp alternator, a 1100696 ("696"), instead of the usual 37 amp alternator, the "693", (that is if you want to operate the TI system up to "standard"). Therefore, you need to start with what you have now in order for you to know (or decide) what you need.
To check for TI you can easily do these things yourself:
Look at your distributor. If it has double, white, electrical wires leading away from the base (that connects into some other wires) it is a TI distributor. If it still has a metal band on the shaft, write down the numbers and compare them to the distributor ID list in the 68-69 Technical (Judging) Manual, Mechanical section, #8 DELCO REMY DISTRIBUTOR, COIL, COIL BRACKET, PULSE AMPLIFIER, page 58. TI also has no points to adjust under the distributor cap so take it off and look inside. If there are points to adjust with a small allen wrench (allen screw lines up with the "window" of the cap), then it is NOT TI.
Open the hood and go to the front left corner (pointed down). Look inside, under the edge in front of the wheelwell (not inside the wheelwell) on the "wall" behind the headlights. There is where the TI pulse amplifier should be with its own wiring harness. It sorta resembles a "box" about 3" x 3". If you only have a "triangle" of holes, and no amplifier "box", then it would be an indication that you once had TI.
Now, what to do. Going back to my previous post, if you have TI now the 696 is the correct alternator. If you don't have TI now and never did, the 693 is correct. If you had TI, but don't have now, then it's your own choice: You would use the 693 now, but would have to get and install the entire TI set up to correctly use the 696 alternator.
I hope I haven't made this as clear as "mud". Please "post back" with any questions or confusion, chester, you'll get plenty of help. Tom #24014Comment
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Re: Alternator ##'s 68??
chester,
I'm losing something in the translation here, this just got kinda fuzzy for me. I'll post-up what I think you're asking and, if you need to, then come back and help straighten out my thinking.
I think you are asking about an alternator, build date 3 months prior to your car's assembly, priced at $90-95. As far as the date: yes that would be acceptable. As far as the price, I don't know exactly what you're getting: new?, NOS?, rebuilt?, used? Chester, please listen: Use an expert here. It will cost you a little more, but unless you burn the thing up yourself, you'll be money ahead. One reference Jack mentioned, and I have used, is John Pirkle at Augusta, Georgia. He's listed on page 9 of the May-June Driveline.
I'm not clear about your "assistance" you mention for the TI. Is this a previous owner, or are you looking for someone to help you check in person? I'm concerned about you calling, ordering, or buying anything (from anyone) until you know this needed this information:
TI will require that you use a (higher) 42 amp alternator, a 1100696 ("696"), instead of the usual 37 amp alternator, the "693", (that is if you want to operate the TI system up to "standard"). Therefore, you need to start with what you have now in order for you to know (or decide) what you need.
To check for TI you can easily do these things yourself:
Look at your distributor. If it has double, white, electrical wires leading away from the base (that connects into some other wires) it is a TI distributor. If it still has a metal band on the shaft, write down the numbers and compare them to the distributor ID list in the 68-69 Technical (Judging) Manual, Mechanical section, #8 DELCO REMY DISTRIBUTOR, COIL, COIL BRACKET, PULSE AMPLIFIER, page 58. TI also has no points to adjust under the distributor cap so take it off and look inside. If there are points to adjust with a small allen wrench (allen screw lines up with the "window" of the cap), then it is NOT TI.
Open the hood and go to the front left corner (pointed down). Look inside, under the edge in front of the wheelwell (not inside the wheelwell) on the "wall" behind the headlights. There is where the TI pulse amplifier should be with its own wiring harness. It sorta resembles a "box" about 3" x 3". If you only have a "triangle" of holes, and no amplifier "box", then it would be an indication that you once had TI.
Now, what to do. Going back to my previous post, if you have TI now the 696 is the correct alternator. If you don't have TI now and never did, the 693 is correct. If you had TI, but don't have now, then it's your own choice: You would use the 693 now, but would have to get and install the entire TI set up to correctly use the 696 alternator.
I hope I haven't made this as clear as "mud". Please "post back" with any questions or confusion, chester, you'll get plenty of help. Tom #24014Comment
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PS, too
chester,
From the times I've been at Bloomington, John Pirkle has usually had a booth set up there as well (this weekend). Call him or better still make some plans to go. If you need info check out www.bloomingtongold.com Tom #24014Comment
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PS, too
chester,
From the times I've been at Bloomington, John Pirkle has usually had a booth set up there as well (this weekend). Call him or better still make some plans to go. If you need info check out www.bloomingtongold.com Tom #24014Comment
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Re: PS, too
Tom Big thanks, I have the distributor band and it reads: 1111293 Delco Remedy 7L6 This with your great knowledge indicates that I have a November 7, 1967 none TI car. I had to laugh when you directed me to open the hood, All I have in my shop is the rolling chassis, and boxes of old and new parts, the body is 2hr north on a spare frame. I wish I could open the hood...the door...the top etc. thanks for the info!! jcComment
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Re: PS, too
Tom Big thanks, I have the distributor band and it reads: 1111293 Delco Remedy 7L6 This with your great knowledge indicates that I have a November 7, 1967 none TI car. I had to laugh when you directed me to open the hood, All I have in my shop is the rolling chassis, and boxes of old and new parts, the body is 2hr north on a spare frame. I wish I could open the hood...the door...the top etc. thanks for the info!! jcComment
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