79 Paint

[John]

I just picked up a low mileage 79-L82 and was told it has the factory paint job. It is the silver paint and I know that was a hard paint to spray, but it does have some small runs in the paint and in some areas it feels like the silver flakes a raised up. I guess this could be from age, but what about the little paint runs. How can I tell if this is the factory paint?

[Patrick H.]

Re: 79 Paint

Hi John!

The factory paint jobs then were quite bad, and if there are runs, its probably original. I just saw a 30,000 mile original paint 81 with bad runs, and even the "pin holes" that develop at the bonding seams were very obvious. When the car was built, the workers put a LOT of filler over the seams of this particular car, and the seams of the fenders were actually "humped up". If the car had been re-done, someone likely would have smoothed out the seams, and would have sanded out the runs.

I also saw a low mile 79 for sale at Bloomington a few yrs ago, in silver like yours, where the factory job was so bad that the dealer painted it before it ever hit the lot! And there was paperwork to prove it!

Anyway, look for signs of respray from a second paint job in places like weatherstripping, etc. Look for other colors or paint thickness if there are any pain chips.Look for "crazing" or cracking of the paint, which would be normal for a 20 yr old lacquer paint job.

As noted before, have it judged a couple of times and see what pans out.

Hope this helps.

Patrick

[Patrick H.]

Re: 79 Paint

Hi John!

The factory paint jobs then were quite bad, and if there are runs, its probably original. I just saw a 30,000 mile original paint 81 with bad runs, and even the "pin holes" that develop at the bonding seams were very obvious. When the car was built, the workers put a LOT of filler over the seams of this particular car, and the seams of the fenders were actually "humped up". If the car had been re-done, someone likely would have smoothed out the seams, and would have sanded out the runs.

I also saw a low mile 79 for sale at Bloomington a few yrs ago, in silver like yours, where the factory job was so bad that the dealer painted it before it ever hit the lot! And there was paperwork to prove it!

Anyway, look for signs of respray from a second paint job in places like weatherstripping, etc. Look for other colors or paint thickness if there are any pain chips.Look for "crazing" or cracking of the paint, which would be normal for a 20 yr old lacquer paint job.

As noted before, have it judged a couple of times and see what pans out.

Hope this helps.

Patrick

[John]

Re: 79 Paint

Thanks Pat. Guess it is the factory paint job. It has all that you stated and no signs of overspray. Just couldn't believe the factory did such a poor job.

[John]

Re: 79 Paint

Thanks Pat. Guess it is the factory paint job. It has all that you stated and no signs of overspray. Just couldn't believe the factory did such a poor job.

[Jack H.]

Re: 79 Paint

Yeah, it's true about factory paint quality. These were 'kit' cars not hand built customs. When I went frame off on my '71, it appeared the RR fender had been hit because glass bond was sloppy and paint appeared different from balance of car. Later I would find the original owner and be told, on delivery he complained of the paint job. Said, there was almost NO PAINT on the RR fender and the dealer did a pre-delivery 'warranty' repair.

Met a fellow at Chevy/Vettefest who was original owner of his '66 BB coupe with 9200 original miles. Looking over car (his invitation) I remarked the paint looked too good to be factory original. A broad smile came on and he had me look real close in certain places -- hey, that's primer showing!

He smiled some more and said the paint had so much orange peel that he buffed and buffed until he got it looking 'right'. Said he buffed so much that in certain places he was burning through the color coat!

Invited me to get down and look at the less visible lower surfaces that he hadn't touched (rear valence panel, Etc.). Sure enough, 'lunar surface' orange peel....

Bottom line isn't how to ID 'original' paint vs. touch up (by who, when?) it's how will the car judge and what do you want to do with it. If you want to preserve factory originality, do as advised -- NOTHING but have it judged. If you want a better appearing car and keep what's there, go find a professional detail shop. They can 'smooth' surface irregularities in the paint with EXTREMELY fine 3M abrasive pad system and make 'er gleam like new (better than new).

On 'flakes' -- all these paints had metalic content. They weren't clear coated, so the burden was on the owner to keep a fresh coating of wax applied to prevent surface oxidation. A fresh buff and good coat of wax will do wonders since it removes a micro layer of paint and generates minor re-flow. Sealing is the best/only way to preserve a truly factory original paint job from the era....

[Jack H.]

Re: 79 Paint

Yeah, it's true about factory paint quality. These were 'kit' cars not hand built customs. When I went frame off on my '71, it appeared the RR fender had been hit because glass bond was sloppy and paint appeared different from balance of car. Later I would find the original owner and be told, on delivery he complained of the paint job. Said, there was almost NO PAINT on the RR fender and the dealer did a pre-delivery 'warranty' repair.

Met a fellow at Chevy/Vettefest who was original owner of his '66 BB coupe with 9200 original miles. Looking over car (his invitation) I remarked the paint looked too good to be factory original. A broad smile came on and he had me look real close in certain places -- hey, that's primer showing!

He smiled some more and said the paint had so much orange peel that he buffed and buffed until he got it looking 'right'. Said he buffed so much that in certain places he was burning through the color coat!

Invited me to get down and look at the less visible lower surfaces that he hadn't touched (rear valence panel, Etc.). Sure enough, 'lunar surface' orange peel....

Bottom line isn't how to ID 'original' paint vs. touch up (by who, when?) it's how will the car judge and what do you want to do with it. If you want to preserve factory originality, do as advised -- NOTHING but have it judged. If you want a better appearing car and keep what's there, go find a professional detail shop. They can 'smooth' surface irregularities in the paint with EXTREMELY fine 3M abrasive pad system and make 'er gleam like new (better than new).

On 'flakes' -- all these paints had metalic content. They weren't clear coated, so the burden was on the owner to keep a fresh coating of wax applied to prevent surface oxidation. A fresh buff and good coat of wax will do wonders since it removes a micro layer of paint and generates minor re-flow. Sealing is the best/only way to preserve a truly factory original paint job from the era....