C2 U-joint recommendations

[Eugene B.]

Members,
Performing rear end maintenance on my '65. If I have to replace the U-joints (half-shaft and propeller) can anyone recommend best brand and provide part numbers? I want to use joints without grease fittings.

Archive postings recommend Spicer or Neapco, but do not have part nos. I understand that Federal-Moguls are approx $17 each. Are they worth considering or are they coming from the import market?

Thanks for your comments and recommendations.

Regards,
Gene

[Mike M.]

Re: C2 U-joint recommendations

get a Summit or Jegs catalog. Lakewood used to make a Zirk-less joint sold to drag racing community. have never broke one yet. mike

[Craig S.]

Re: C2 U-joint recommendations

Gene - Joe Lucia had a very extensive post on this about a year ago, I saved it in a file...I will have to look for it....Craig

[Craig S.]

Re: C2 U-joint recommendations

Here it is from my files, all you would ever need to know..thx Joe!...Craig

Universal Joints
Posted By: Joe Lucia
Date: Tuesday, 9 July 2002, at 5:13 p.m.
Very often the subject of universal joints comes up with the specific question: "which u-joints should I use?". Since the original PRODUCTION u-joints used by GM are long-since discontinued from GM SERVICE, that's not an option for most folks (except those folks with a huge personal cache of same [none for sale]). So, what to do? A lot depends upon what you want from the u-joint and what your priorities are.
As a general rule, I only recommend the use of Spicer or Neapco u-joints and, by far, I prefer Spicer. Spicer manufactured most of the PRODUCTION u-joints used in Corvettes, although none of this style remain available from Spicer today. However, if one is after a u-joint configured the closest to PRODUCTION, then the one to use is the Spicer "Time-Tempered" line. This u-joint is similar to configuration of the original PRODUCTION u-joint except for color of the seals (blue versus original black) and the fact that these have grease fittings. Few, if any, original Corvette u-joints used from 1963-82 were equipped with grease fittings.
Another possibility for an original-like configuration is Neapco, in either their standard line or their "Brute Strength" variety. All of these are configured similar to the originals. I'm not sure if the Brute Strength type include grease fittings, or not.
While all of the above will function adequately in most circumstances, keep in mind that NONE of the above are an OEM-QUALITY, PRODUCTION-type u-joint. They are of high quality, but AFTERMARKET high quality. You cannot get any of these joints through the GM parts system since you can only get OEM-type parts through the GM parts system; you can't get aftermarket-type parts through the GM parts system.
As is the case most of the time, OEM-QUALITY is different. In the Spicer line, OEM quality means the "Spicer-Life" line of u-joints. These u-joints are of considerably higher quality and are PRODUCTION-validated pieces. Among other differences, these u-joints feature cold-formed center sections and NO grease fittings, just like original GM PRODUCTION pieces (because they are original GM PRODUCTION pieces for current production). They have 2 "downsides", though: as you would expect, cost is one of them. Good things don't come cheap and there is no exception here. The second thing is that their configuration is TOTALLY unlike the original PRODUCTION pieces used on 63-82 Corvettes. But, if quality and strength are what you seek, these are the ones to use. Below are the current GM part numbers for the joints and their current GM list price. You can get these for less money through Spicer dealers (under Spicer part numbers which I don't have at hand), but they'll still be expensive:
GM #26015249----$84.19/EACH
63-67----all driveshaft applications
68-70----all manual trans driveshaft applications
GM #12545626-----$53.88/EACH
68-70----all driveshaft THM trans
71-79----all driveshaft
GM #12471503-----$97.04/EACH
63-79----all halfshaft
Yes, these are all expensive. But, these are OEM-quality, NOT aftermarket quality. There IS a difference.

Re: Universal Joints
Posted By: Don Shirey
Date: Monday, 29 July 2002, at 11:58 a.m.
In Response To: Universal Joints (Joe Lucia)
Joe,
Just purchased Spicer Life U-Joints for both GM #26015249 and
GM #12471503 from a Spicer dealer in Roseville Michigan. Ask for
Jeff in parts at 586-779-4400. Called other Spicer dealers and
they weren't aware of "Life" series. Jeff had to order the parts
but the total cost including 6% sales tax and shipping was only
$111.26! Can't believe how much these things are marked up!!!
GM #26015249----$84.19/EACH Spicer #5-785 ------ $14.97/EACH
Specs: 1-1/16 cap dia. x 3.250 OAL
GM #12471503-----$97.04/EACH Spicer #5-799 ------ $16.88/EACH
Specs: 1-3/16 cap dia x 3.625 OAL
Don

[Eugene B.]

Re: Thanks, and a question

Craig,
Thank you for going to the trouble to find the above posting. I read all that I could find, last night, but I missed this one.

I'm am going to attempt to remove my originals and repack them, but I afraid that they will be destroyed with the removing process. I tried to remove them with a C-clamp style u-joint press, but they won't budge. If heat is used, the rubber boots will go up in smoke, and they'll be history!

Does anyone have a clever trick to get them out safely?

Regards,
Gene

[Craig S.]

Re: Thanks, and a question

Gene - If you have a good grade C clamp style press such as OTC, it should get them out safely, or a floor hydraulic press. What you must exercise extreme care on are the outboard flanges that bolt to the wheel spindles or they can be bent and ruined. When you apply pressure with that C clamp press, don't force the joint excessively. When there is fair pressure but it has not budged, take a ball peen hamme and wrap sharply on the yoke OPPOSITE the foot end of the press. Usually, this pressure will allow the joint to move at this "outboard" end opposite the foot. The end at the foot will move into the press usually, but the end closest to the screw end will spring. This sharp wrap let's it move without damaging the yoke. Also, I like to use an old splined flage on the outboard ends of the halfshaft yokes to prevent distortion of the thin forging during removal of the outboard flange. With the flange bolted to it's mating splined flange, the unit is more rigid and this prevents damage. It is very easy to overstress these outboard flanges upon removal if you are not careful. Personally, I would not try to save the originals, I would just get the Spicer Life units Joe mentions. Good luck!....Craig

[Joe L.]

Re: Thanks, and a question

Gene-----

Forget trying to save the originals; you're wasting your time with that effort. I can virtually guarantee you that at least one trunnion of each and every one will be brinneled rendering the joint scrap. Usually, ALL of the trunnions will be brinneled. Even the slightest brinneling of only one trunnion renders the joint scrap.

[Mike M.]

Original bearing retainers, the "End Caps" that...

fit into the ends of the shaft and yoke/spindle were Flat/Flush on the outside end. Current replacements have a pronounce circular recess that is obvious during judging and subject to the appropriate deducts.
FWIW - H.a.N.D.

[Eugene B.]

Re: End cap & Judging Manual ?'s

Michael,
Thank you for your response and comments. I have two questions about your reply. 1) Are you saying that the original end caps are not recessed a bit and retained by a spring retainer? 2) Where in the 1965 TIM & Judging Guide are U-joints discussed? I've looked several times and can't find it.

Thanks,
Gene

[Mike M.]

1. Yes, flush behind the retainers, 2. Knowledge..

beyond the JG. Sorry, I only get to a computer about once a week.
H.a.N.D.