C3 Courtesy Light problem - NCRS Discussion Boards

C3 Courtesy Light problem

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  • don justham

    C3 Courtesy Light problem

    Can't get the courtesy lights to work on my 1970. I don't understand wiring diagrams very well but when tested with a meter I am getting 12 volts from both wires coming to the bulb. This is true even with both doors shut and thus the door jamb swithes are open. Is this right? SHouldn't there be a ground somewhere? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks
  • Chas Henderson #28127

    #2
    Re: C3 Courtesy Light problem

    I know that this is a silly question but, Is the wire attached to the switch in both door jams? They are the switches on the hinge post. The way they work is when the door is opened, the switch expands and the hot wire on the passenger side makes contack with the metal door post frame. Thus completing the circuit. The switch on the drivers side is almost the same set up, but the switch has two wires that hook up to it. Check to make sure you are getting a good ground.

    Chasman

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    • george romano

      #3
      Re: C3 Courtesy Light problem

      Check out this tip. I know it works, I wrote it!

      George




      door pin switches

      Comment

      • Patrick H.
        Beyond Control Poster
        • December 1, 1989
        • 11622

        #4
        Re: C3 Courtesy Light problem

        George,

        I don't think the link works for non-VH members.

        Patrick
        Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
        71 "deer modified" coupe
        72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
        2008 coupe
        Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.

        Comment

        • george romano

          #5
          Your right, my bad....

          Here ya go:Date: 8/17/2002 at 20:16:54

          Over the years I have had problems with the door switches that operate the interior lights on 68-74 Corvettes. These switches use what is commonly referred to as "fish hook" connectors. These connectors attach to the wiring harness, and are pushed into the back of the switch, clicking into place. If there are two or more wires on any given switch, they all must be inserted the exact same amount, or not all of the contacts will be grounded when the door is opened.

          There are two areas of concern with regard to these courtesy light switches. First, the repro switch looks nothing like the original, although it is the same overall length, and is of the same design; using the original fish hook connectors. The second area of concern, is the connections to the switch via these fish hooks. There seems to be varying amounts of tolerance when the fish hook connectors are manufactured. Some are slightly longer than others, and if this is the case, only the longer connector contacts the ground to operate the light. The shorter one makes no cantact, and therefore no light operation.

          The solution is as simple as ordering a set of switches for a 75-82 LEFT hand courtesy switch. Externally, these switches look almost exactly like the original 68-74 switch, only difference being the color. These switches have conventional male spade terminals built into them. The wires for the interior lights can be connected to these newer switches by conventional female crimp style spade terminals, eliminating the fish hook connectors altogether. The result is a switch that looks almost exactly like the original 68-74 switch, but uses a superior, easy to obtain, more reliable connector. I have had these switches in my 72 Corvette for four years, and have never had a problem with light operation since installing them.

          George

          Comment

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