Well i learned alot from my first vett a 1968 427 rally red convertible N.O.M but a very nice driver and a tool to learn So on to my next one when i was a little tike i use to go to my grandfathers house.The guy across the street had a 1970 454 corvette coupe 4-speed leather interior that he bought brand spanking new from the local dealer man i loved the look since then i was hooked on anything corvette.Well he would say he would never sell it but when i bought the 1968 and got it home he came over and told me one day that him and his wife would sell me the car.So i did what i had to do to get the 68 running and a nice driver and sell it well it sold Monday night and i'm in the process of getting the 1970 it hasn't been on the road since 1982 but he did start and run it,the interior and engine bay look like it did in the showroom it only has 28,265 miles on it,the brakes are gone! and the rally rims and tires are gone to he put a set of ET racing mags on it in 1971.Question is where do i start do i drop the tank and retreive the sticker to seal it the car still has the pop the title the seat bushings in the bag the keys and the window sticker and the finance paper. Where do i start.
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Re: 1968-sold to buy my 1970
Don,
STOP --- Before you "start" and do something you may regret, you have a special car there. I'll let others chime in with the possibilities that you have with your "new" 1970 Corvette big block. You have the opportunity to get it Bow Tie judged. I would suggest getting the appropriate NCRS judging manuals before you do ANYTHING to your car. Don't even wash the car until you are absolutely sure what your possibilities are.
I have a 1970 big block too. What is the VIN (approximate would do)? Mine was late production (July 70).Tony -
Re: 1968-sold to buy my 1970
Start by getting a big pie-eating grin on your face, you lucky SOB.
Actually, if it were me, I would do as little as possible. You may have a "Bow Tie" candidate on your hands. Because the Bow Tie judges look at every nut and screw to see if any part has ever been removed, I would do only what's necessary to get the brakes working well. You are probably looking at getting the calipers overhauled (if the bores aren't completely trashed) or sleeved if the bores are beyond hope, and flushing/refilling/bleeding the hydraulic system. Clean the car using only soap and water.
Meantime, begin checking the numbers to see if this really is a princess. We can help you with the numbers, but get the 70 TIM&JG and read it thoroughly. I think you may need to do something about getting some appropriate rallys for judging and that isn't going to be easy; the good news is that any racing mags from the 70s will probably be valuable as well. I would keep them and mount some driving tires.Comment
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Re: Calm Down I'm Getting it at end of August
The brake calipers i thought about sending them out and getting them rebuilt and shipped back to me.The paint is starting to flake off the primer in spots also i don't know the vin yet but i will let you know as far as checking the car over to make sure its for real no need i've been arond the car since i was three years old i know its for real.I'm going to look for correct rally wheels but what about the tank sticker should i just drop the tank and photograph it and put it back or what?he even has 24 magazines from GM and then they canceled his free subscription because he said they weren't going to be doing that anymore.Comment
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Sorry...
It's just that the thought of a big block 70 with 28K miles and a single anal retentive owner with all the documentation made my heartrate increase to 65. :-)
You can probably see if the tank sticker is there by depressing the rubber fuel filler boot on the left side. That should allow you to see the top of the tank where the tank sticker is usually located. Use flashlight and a mirror. I would not drop the tank until you decide the Bow Tie issue; more tool marks on the fasteners. Your idea of documenting it with a high quality (maybe professional level) photographs and leaving the tank sticker intact would be my recommendation. It's highly likely the tank sticker is there...I would bet $100 it's there.
Don't worry about condition of the paint or anything else. Just use soap and water to clean the car. Bow Tie judges are primarily looking for unmolested originality. Trying to improve the look of the car too much could be a mistake re Bow Tie judging.Comment
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Re: 1968-sold to buy my 1970
Don, congrats on the 70. I have a very original 70 454, Daytona Yellow coupe with 28,000 miles. It's alot of fun...500 ft-lbs of torque waiting to snap your head clean off.
I'd follow what the others have said about doing anything to it until you've determined its Bowtie potential.
As far as the tank sticker, seeing how you already have the POP and all the other documentation, there's really no need to knock yourself out getting the tank sticker. If you still want to get the tank sticker, I wouldn't try to remove it, just take some high quality photos of it.
Mine is a first week of production (Jan 9th, 1970, VIN 531) so all the dates are 69 which is kind of cool.
Would love to see pics of the TCS vacuum tubes (driver's side of the intake manifold), as I've never seen an orginal installation.1969 Riverside Gold Coupe, L71, 14,000 miles. Top Flight, 2 Star Bowtie.Comment
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Re: 1968-sold to buy my 1970
Yes, your next investment needs to be a good digital camera to send us hundreds of detail pictures of the car...
Uhm... a TCS tube would be great.
Congratulations, Roberto, NCRS #30019, RMCComment
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Re: 1968-sold to buy my 1970
Don, congrats on your find. I agree with the other posts regarding "doing nothing" until the 70 is BowTie inspected. I hope you sold the 68 to someone that will take care of it. Even though you sold the 68 - remember her. Someday someone may be calling about it. Another 'black sheep' owner goneComment
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