Rivets- 68 Corvette - NCRS Discussion Boards

Rivets- 68 Corvette

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  • Kurt B.
    Very Frequent User
    • July 31, 1996
    • 971

    Rivets- 68 Corvette

    From under my car I can see various clips that are rivetted to the floorpan and transmission tunnel and which are used to hold insulation in place.
    The clips are attached by aluminum rivets with large heads.
    I just ordered some replacement clips and they come with the aluminum rivets but I don't know how to install the rivets.
    Is there some special tool or procedure. Banging on them will likely crack the floor pan.
    Any suggestions are appreciated.
    Thank you,
    Kurt Bunting # 26406
  • Joe L.
    Beyond Control Poster
    • February 1, 1988
    • 43221

    #2
    Re: Rivets- 68 Corvette

    Kurt-----

    These rivets are a pain to install. It really requires 2 people; one holding the head of the rivet with a "bucking bar" and the other flattening the other end. There are some tools on the market (I think that Paragon and/or LICS sells one) for the flattening end.

    For the rivets, you MUST use those that are made of soft aluminum, as the originals were. Otherwise, you'll never be able to install them. The best rivets are those sold by Dr. Rebuild. Those sold by others may or may not be comparable.
    In Appreciation of John Hinckley

    Comment

    • Dave McDufford

      #3

      Comment

      • Harmon C.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • August 31, 1994
        • 3228

        #4
        Re: Rivet Setting

        This is the way I set rivets on Corvettes. The rivet needs to be the proper length. It should come thru the metal you are attaching the same length as the diameter of the rivet. Too much or to little metal will get poor results adjust as needed. Back up the head with a heavy hammer a helper is needed. Use the round end of the hammer to set the rivet making light blows to the outer edge of the shaft to form the squash. Their is a Pexto tool that will round and finish the squash if you left the correct amount of metal. If you are trying to match an original squash you could make the finishing tool the shape of an original squash. Their may be some judges out their that have rivets as their thing. Lyle
        Lyle

        Comment

        • Gary B.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • February 1, 1997
          • 7024

          #5
          Lyle; can you clarify?

          Lyle,

          When you say to use the "round end of the hammer," do you mean that you simple use a ball peen
          hammer and tap around the periphery of the exposed rivet end to start the squash?

          Gary

          Comment

          • William C.
            NCRS Past President
            • May 31, 1975
            • 6037

            #6
            Re: Rivets- 68 Corvette

            I did the rivits on my '65 with a gun I made from a cheap air chisel. I cut off the end of a seldom (never) used tool to give me a shank that fit into the gun, then drilled a 3/16 hole into the end of the shank, about 1/8 deep. use that on the end you are peening while a friend bucks it up with a LARGE hammer flat against the rivit head and you will swear the results were from the factory. Very little pressure is required as the gun does most of the work.
            Bill Clupper #618

            Comment

            • Harmon C.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • August 31, 1994
              • 3228

              #7
              Re: Lyle; can you clarify?

              Yes I use a 12 oz. ball peen hammer and go slow not heavy hits with practice and a finishing tool the result can( appear original). The goal of all Corvette restorations for judging.
              Lyle

              Comment

              • Kurt B.
                Very Frequent User
                • July 31, 1996
                • 971

                #8
                Re: Lyle; can you clarify?

                Thanks all for the input. I only need to fasten one or two rivets so purchasing a power tool for the job would be a waste. I also don't have an air gun or a compressor.
                The rivet holds the sharp pointed bracket that is on the underbody and supports insulation so I am not sure how to get at the head to peen it over since the triangle shaped flanges of the bracket will interfere.
                This should be quite an interesting endeavor without cracking the fiberglass floor pan.

                Comment

                • Dave McDufford

                  #9
                  Re: Lyle; can you clarify?

                  In your situation I would use a pop rivet. It will not be seen and you will not damage anything. If you do not have a pop rivet gun, use a small bolt and washer. In fact a small bolt and washer might be better.

                  Comment

                  • Kurt B.
                    Very Frequent User
                    • July 31, 1996
                    • 971

                    #10
                    Thank you. It worked.

                    I would be lost without the collective help and wisdom of this board.
                    I just went to the garage, wife held a 5 pound sledge hammer over the rivet head (inside the car) while I used a short 6 inch section of 3/4 inch steel rod on the other end of the rivet (under the car) and a few good solid hits with a hammer using the rod like a chisel and "Voila" it worked.
                    Thank you all for your input and pointing me in the right direction.
                    Someday (hopefully soon) "WE" will finish this 6 year long restoration project.
                    Kurt Bunting #26406

                    Comment

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