As I mentioned earlier, I've lost 3rd gear in my '62 T-10. If it is a syncro or broken tooth, how practical is it to put a Muncie in as a driver? I have original 327/340hp engine out on stand. Have GM crate 350 in as driver engine. How's the cost difference on repair of T-10 vs rebuilt Muncie? What year of Muncie is required? Sorry for so many questions...still depressed over original T-10 breaking.
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Re: Muncie vs T-10
Don-----
It's certainly going to cost more to purchase a rebuilt Muncie outright than to repair your T-10. On the other hand, if you already have a replacement, "driver" engine in the car, it might not be a bad idea to obtain a driver transmission, too. This could be either a Muncie or another T-10. Any 64-70 Muncie or any 57-62 T-10 will work perfectly and will be a bolt-in installation. You may need a special output shaft yoke, though, if you use the Muncie. You could use a 71-74 Muncie or a later Super T-10, too. However, these are about 3/4" longer than your original trans and will require a driveshaft shortening. They're 32 spline output will also need a special and different output yoke, too.
Repairing your T-10 should not be that big of a deal. Replacement gears, synchros and internal parts are available. They're not cheap, but you'll likely require, at most, 1 gear or synchro assembly. So, if you have the job done, you'll have rebuild labor (about $200), a rebuild kit (about $150), plus whatever major part(s) you need.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: Muncie vs T-10
Don, a Muncie will bolt right in a 62. You need to count the splines on the output shaft. I think a Muncie uses the same yoke as a PG. The 62 trans mount will work. The shifter rods may have to be changed, though I think the shifter itself will work. I have a surplus 62 T-10, but I can't offer to sell it to you without violating forum rules.Comment
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Re: Muncie vs T-10
I just learned something new, of course I learn something new every time I read the answers on the forum. I ordered a super 10T with iron case (no more broken ears on the case) from a hod rod shop 30 years ago with the output shaft for a 1962 Vette and installed it with the original drive shaft. I have not had any trouble since then (10:85 in quarter mile with 355ci engine)It may because of my stiffff springs. I think I will check for bottoming of the slip joint now though.
GeneComment
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Re: Muncie vs T-10
I lost 2nd gear in my 63 T10. It was $160 for the gear and $170 for a syncro unit. Add to that gaskets and probably $50 an hour labor.
Good luckComment
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Re: Muncie vs T-10
You can put a Muncie in a '62. They are the same length. Some differences/things to check:
1. The shifter will bolt on. You can also use 2 of the 3 shifter rods. The reverse rod is different. Don't know if you can only buy the reverse rod. They're usually sold as sets. Around $75 for the set.
2. Later Muncies had the speedometer cable on the passenger side. Don't know if your existing speedometer cable will go over there. Earlier Muncies had the speedometer cable on the driver's side - same as the T10.
3. You will need the special long Corvette slip yoke for the Muncie. Around $125. It's different from the T10 one. The Muncie one is a fine spline (26?). The T10 one is the coarse spline (10?). Don't use the common Muncie shorter spline. It'll work for a while, but will destroy the tailshaft bearing or bushing after a few thousand miles.
4. Not sure about the tooth count on the front spline for all Muncies. Earlier Muncies had the same coarse spline as the T10s. So you could use the same clutch. Make sure your existing clutch will fit on the front of the Muncie transmission. Or, figure the cost of a new clutch into your calculations.
5. The rear mount is different. But your '62 mounting plate will adapt it.Comment
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Re: Muncie vs T-10
chris is corrrect in noting that the two different trannys in question have different locations for the transmission mount. Seems to me that i used a piece of 3/16 plate about 4 inches square inserted between the muncie tailhousing and the tranny mount when installing a muncie in a C-1. As i recall. the two drilled and tapped holes in the muncie tailhousing are an inch or so foreward of the respective tapped holes in a t-10. mikeComment
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Re: Muncie vs T-10
I put a Muncie in a 58 many years back. Seems like the trans mount for a PG (which the car already had) bolted right up. I was under the impression that the 62 (only) would accept the Muncie without any adapter, since the 62 T-10 and PG used the same trans mount?????? All that occured some 30 years ago and my memory may be pretty fuzzy. I do remember that the driveshaft yoke for the PG fit the Muncie, or at least I think I remember that. Maybe I need some of those memory pills they have down at the health food store.Comment
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Re: Muncie vs T-10
Yes, you're right. Need that plate to put a Muncie in a C1. But the '62 already come with that plate. '62s need it whether it's a T10 or a Muncie. It's around $15 in all the usual vendor catalogs. It's listed as a '62 only piece and used to install Muncies in '56s to '61s.Comment
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Re: Muncie vs T-10
I have had all three transmissions in my 62 over the years and all fit the same,
shafts and shifter except the mount adapter and linkage.I too have one the aftermarket super t-10(dated69)all cast iron high nickel content gears in my 62 now and if your looking for the BEST trans for your driver motor,you should look for one them ,it looks stock for a 62
I used it for two years behind my 435,while looking for a cluster gear for my muncie and its the best 4 speed I've ever seen it can take anything.
I have seen them on ebay for 650-800 and in a nascar ad for $800.00
but the muncies came with two diferent inputs and outputs and its how they were built last being more important then what years
You want the small input 10s and output shaft 16? in a muncie
I have some spare linkage rodsComment
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