Today was the first day that I got my 67 big block out of winter hibernation after five months. Checked all fluids,belts etc. and found all to be in good order. It started right up and after I let it warm up for a few minutes,off I went. Drove around for a couple of hours with the top down. It was great! I went home and parked in the drive to tidy up the garage,and when I got back in the car to start it there was silence. The starter would not engage,and with the key turned to the start position the amp meter showed a full discharge. Does this sound like a bad solenoid or starter? I waited several hours and gave it another try with no success. Neighbor and I pushed it into the garage.
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Re: C2-starter won't crank
Rob-----
The first thing I'd do would be to check the battery. About 95% of the time with a problem like this, that's where the culprit will be found.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: C2-starter won't crank
Rob - it sounds like a typical problem with the brushes not contacting the armature well, frequently you can tap the starter case lightly with a hammer and the starter will work again. It is probably time to pull the starter and freshen it up, if it has been a while. You didn't comment if the solenoid engagaged correctly or not....if you hear the clicking sound of the solennoid engaging, it is probably the brushes/armature, if there is no noise at all, you may just have a solenoid/bendix problem. In either case, it is easier to remove the starter to work on the bench. Good luck!...CraigComment
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Re: C2-starter won't crank
Joe's idea is easier to try first...mine would be if his doesn't catch the culprit!...CraigComment
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Re: C2-starter won't crank
Thanks for the imput guys. The battery is new from september. There is no clicking from the solenoid. It is completely quiet.The only response as I said in the original post is a full discharge when the key is turned. I will try tapping the starter, and then go from there. I just wanted to get some imput before I crawl under and pull the starter out.Comment
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Re: C2-starter won't crank
Rob, One other idea, check your engine wiring harness at the plug-in on the firewall, there may be a lose connection or poor connection.
DarwinComment
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Re: C2-starter won't crank
If you have a Powerglide transmission, it could be the neutral safety switch thats bad. I had a similar problem and I found out it was the neutral safety switch by bypassing with the connectors in the engine compartment just above the wiper motor. I have a 1966 Coupe.
Hasse Ryden #868Hans Ryden #868Comment
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Re: C2-starter won't crank
Rob, I've noticed that if I don't competely close the circuit on my battery cut off switch that the dash components will work but the starter will not fire. Maybe too simple but wanted to try to catch you befor you removed the starter.Comment
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Re: C2-starter won't crank
Thank you one and all! I finally got some free time to do some additional trouble shooting. I removed the green knob cut off switch and reinstalled the battery cable and VOILA! it started normally. I will throw it away and replace it with something better. What is strange is it started normally after five months of sitting,and then wouldn't an hour later. The switch (knob) had not been touched again. As said by others,the dash lights and accessories worked fine,but not the starter. Again, thanks everybody.Comment
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Re: C2-starter won't crank
Having apparently solved the problem. What do I replace the "green knob" with,and where can I get one?Comment
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Re: C2-starter won't crank
I rejuvenated my "green knob" assembly by disassembling it and cleaning (filing) the contact areas.
VerleComment
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Re: C2-starter won't crank
What kills the "green knob" switches is partial contact, which creates an arc and burns the contact surfaces when you turn the key to "start" and the knob isn't tight. Have used them for years on many cars, and have never had a problem with any of them; I always loosen the knob about six half-turns to disconnect, and turn it down good and tight to connect. If the knob is loose enough to still make partial contact and you zap it with 200-300 amps for the starter, it does bad things to the contact surfaces.Comment
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Re: C2-starter won't crank
I have the green knobs too, no problems so far. I have heard there is another version out there with a knife switch that supposedly is better, but, my personal experience is I like the ability to force a positive hard and tight contact. Seems like a knife switch over time would loose some pressure, like your wall sockets and plugs...CraigComment
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Re: C2-starter won't crank
You're right about the knife types. But I theorize that they still work because there is so much surface area making the connection that it overcompensates for the looseness.
I've used both. You can find the knife switch type in various places. I believe I've seen them in the "Driveline." JC Whitney used to carry them. I think they're made by Wirth (sp?).
I don't like the knife type because it's big and ugly. Mine has loosened considerably with use, but still works fine. The knife switch also doesn't have the anti-theft advantage of the green knob. You can unscrew the green knob completely and stick it in your pocket.Comment
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