C2 Lower Ball Joint Replacement

[Philip Whitaker Member# 2024]

I'm in the process of rebuilding the control arms on my 64. The upper ball joints are original and in good condition. However, the lower ball joints were replaced by the previous owner. I would like to stay as original as possible. This leaves me with many questions that I know some of you knowledgeable restorers can answer.

When the original joints are removed, the rivets holding them to the control arm are ground off and the holes in the control arm are drilled out to a larger diameter to accommodate bolts.

Now that I want to have the new ball joints riveted in, will it be neccessary to resize the holes (weld and redrill)? Or are the rivets being sold oversized to accommodate not only the oversize hole in the control arm but the more than likely oversize hole in available ball joints.

Also I'm looking for a good replacement ball joint that would meet judging criteria. I believe that they will have to have a starter stub before the threads.

I see that LIC offers a riveting service and says they have a "good replacement" ball joint. I would welcome any opinions of the ball joint they sell and of the service itself. Does anyone know of anyone else offering ball joint riveting services?

Thanks, Phil

[Wayne W.]

Re: C2 Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Most joints that I have seen use a bolt of the same diameter of the rivets.t

[Joe L.]

Re: C2 Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Wayne and Phil-----

Yes, for the lower joints, the original rivets and SERVICE ball joint bolts are the same diameter which is 5/16". For the UPPER ball joints, the holes in the a-arm have to be enlarged from 1/4" (actually the original holes are 9/32") to accept the 5/16" bolt size which the SERVICE ball joints are designed to use.

There is NO SERVICE ball joint on the market today which I am aware of which is configured like the original GM ball joints. Some may be a bit better than others, but none are like the originals. Usually, they differ in all respects from the originals; the seat casting (for lowers) and stamping (for uppers) is WAY different, the studs have no extensions, and the seal and seal attachment is TOTALLY different.

In fact, I saw an original set of GM lowers (not in the original boxes, though) sell on eBay in the last few days for about $258. Makes me glad that I've got a "lifetime+ supply" [none for sale].

[Philip Whitaker Member# 2024]

Re: C2 Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Thanks Wayne,

I'm just going by what the shop manual says. "NOTE: Drill out rivet holes in control arm to diameter specified in service kit directions."

I'm assuming that they are refering to GM replacements. I don't know the manufactorer of the replacement ball joints that I removed from my car, but the diameter of the bolt holding the ball joint in the arm is 5/16 inch.

[Philip Whitaker Member# 2024]

Re: C2 Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Joe,

Thanks. I watched those ball joints on ebay but didn't bid because I didn't know if they were GM originals or some other manufactorer. If you're telling me those were the Real McCoys, then I'll know what I'm looking for. The 63 shop manual confused me because it does say to drill the lower control arm to accommadate bolts supplied in ball joint kit. I don't think there is any sense in riveting in a ball joint if it does'nt look original. I guess I'll be on the hunt for some NOS. There was a post a while back where the poster said he was able to recondition his ball joints. Is anyone out there offering reconditioned ball joints for sale?

[Wayne W.]

Re: C2 Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Yes, Joe the original question was about the lowers. You are correct that uppers will have to be drilled. Intrestingly, because they are not under as much stress, the uppers are almost never worn.

[Joe L.]

Re: C2 Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Wayne----

Yes, the original question was about the lower ball joints. However, there was also mention made in the question about drilling out the a-arms for the bolts to install the ball joints. I simply pointed out that was applicable to the uppers and not the lowers. It's what's called "additional information"; sometimes I provide it and sometimes I don't. But, in this case, I felt that it was necessary for "educational purposes" and to make it clear that, sometimes, it is necessary to drill out the a-arm holes to install ball joints.

By the way, for those that are interested, it is possible to re-rivet the uppers using 5/16" rivets after enlarging the holes to 11/32". Unfortunately, the upper SERVICE ball joints, including GM, have 11/32" holes, so it's not practical to use 1/4" rivets, as original. But, once installed, the installation is difficult to tell from original, especially if the heads of the rivets are trimmed prior to installation.

Incidentally, SOME original upper ball joint installations used a special, cone-head rivet that is unlike those currently sold and used for this purpose.

[Joe L.]

Re: C2 Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Phil------

What do you know? My "additional information" turned out to be valuable for understanding what the service manual says regarding drilling out the holes.

As far as SERVICE ball joints, the uppers and lowers have 11/32" attachment holes and use 5/16" diameter fastners. This applies to GM and every other aftermarket SERVICE ball joint that I've ever seen for Corvettes.

[Philip Whitaker Member# 2024]

Re: C2 Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Thanks Joe,

I'm squared away on the hole size now and the fact that I won't have to weld up the holes and redrill them.

You said in an earlier response that you had original ball joints. Do you rivet them yourself or do you use a "service". LIC wants $25 a rivet for thier labor, so I'm guessing it's probably a task that takes some highly specialized tools. I have never "bucked" a rivet. Is it possible to "buck" this large of a rivet at home? I'm guessing this isn't a soft rivet.

Phil

[Joe L.]

Re: C2 Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Phil-----

I have the tools to rivet them, but I only do it for myself; I never do any work for others and I don't rent out or otherwise loan tools. It is a difficult job even with the tools. Quite frankly, obtaining the tools is absolutely NOT cost effective for most hobbyists (I rarely do anything in a cost-effective manner, though).

If Long Island charges $25 PER RIVET, that sounds high to me, though. I'd check with Bairs's of Linesville, PA or Van Steel of Clearwater, FL. They both do this work. Even at $25 per rivet, though, it's stil less expensive than the buying the tools even if you do the whole car (10 rivets).

[Philip Whitaker Member# 2024]

Re: C2 Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Thanks Wayne and Joe,

I've contacted Van Steel and they are sending me a catalog. They seem quite knowledgeable and reasonably priced.

Phil