1967 L36 high oil pressure and moving distributor - NCRS Discussion Boards

1967 L36 high oil pressure and moving distributor

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  • Phil A.
    Very Frequent User
    • April 30, 1982
    • 121

    1967 L36 high oil pressure and moving distributor

    I attempted to start my L36 for the first time which was rebuilt 5 years ago. These are the problems I am encountering; 1. having difficulty setting the distributor for initial timing 2.when the car tries to start the distributor raises up about 1/4 inch even though the distributor is clamped down with the original clamp 3. when the engine tried to start it pegged the oil gage so it appears that there is too much oil pressure. The oil gage is now stuck as far right as it will go. Does anyone have any idea what is going on. Please I need help. This has been an 8 year restoration project. Thanks Phil Anderson
  • Dave Suesz

    #2
    For what it's worth...

    My C1 ALWAYS runs with the oil pegged except at hot idle. Been that way for 48 years.

    Comment

    • Clem Z.
      Expired
      • January 1, 2006
      • 9427

      #3
      Re: 1967 L36 high oil pressure and moving distribu

      sounds to me like the oil pump bypass plunger is stuck shut. get your self a drill driven oil pump primer and try that to see what happens.

      Comment

      • Joe L.
        Beyond Control Poster
        • February 1, 1988
        • 43221

        #4
        Re: 1967 L36 high oil pressure and moving distribu

        clem and Phil-----

        Yes, and also check for proper installation and proper functioning of the oil filter valve. This is the magnesium piece that includes the bypass valve and through which the oil filter cannister bolt passes.
        In Appreciation of John Hinckley

        Comment

        • John M.
          Expired
          • January 1, 1998
          • 813

          #5
          Re: 1967 L36 high oil pressure and moving distribu

          Phil,
          Is the whole distributor rising 1/4" or just the rotor? If it's just the rotor there is way too much end play which you might be able to shim up. The tach drive gear can cause the shaft and rotor to do this (move up and down)if the gear is binding a little.

          Comment

          • Larry Sherman

            #6
            Re: 1967 L36 high oil pressure and moving distribu

            Best guess is your oil pump relief is rusty from those 5 years. My 427 390 did the same thing and believe me , it will build up a heap of pressure. I'm sure I could have broken something if I hadn't pulled the pan and looked at the pump. Tossed it and put in a new stock pump and all was fine. Larry

            Comment

            • Phil A.
              Very Frequent User
              • April 30, 1982
              • 121

              #7
              Re: 1967 L36 high oil pressure and moving distribu

              Clem, I did prime the engine with a dummy distributor using a 1/2 inch drill, once the pressure built in about 5 seconds the drill could hardly turn the pump. Does this mean that the oil pump is defective? Thanks Phil Anderson

              Comment

              • Clem Z.
                Expired
                • January 1, 2006
                • 9427

                #8
                Re: 1967 L36 high oil pressure and moving distribu

                phil i sent you a email. clem

                Comment

                • Jack H.
                  Extremely Frequent Poster
                  • April 1, 1990
                  • 9906

                  #9
                  How about mice?

                  One club member out here who shall remain nameless has made a 'career' out of his early mid-year restoration.... Afraid to finish it because something might be wrong, so it's been in frame off for better than 10-years!

                  Well, the first thing he did was overhaul the engine (327 SB) and set it aside. When, he finally got around to progressing to the rolling frame stage last summer, he couldn't turn the motor.

                  One investigation turned to another and finally the top end was torn into. When the intake manifold came off, there were about THREE mouse nest reminants in various cylinder bores!

                  So, when someone tells me the engine has been sitting for years and acts 'squirrely' on initial fire attempt, I can conjure up all sorts of off-the-wall images for what might be wrong!

                  Comment

                  • Duke W.
                    Beyond Control Poster
                    • January 1, 1993
                    • 15678

                    #10
                    Re: How about mice?

                    How do mice get into the cylinders of an assembled engine. Were the manifolds not installed or the openings not taped up?

                    Duke

                    Comment

                    • Clem Z.
                      Expired
                      • January 1, 2006
                      • 9427

                      #11
                      Re: How about mice?

                      duke mice can go thru a keyhole in a door because of their flexible skeleton. i had a friend that called me because is car would not run well so i went over to his house to see what the problem could be. the the first thing i did was to remove the closed type air cleaner and it was full of dog food from a sack in his garage that the mice had hauled into the opening in the front of the air cleaner. it was so full that the air could not get to the carb. i have found mice nest built over night on the engine of my silverado just setting outside at our camp. those little guys are everywhere and i have seen the get blow out of a tailpipe of a car after winter storage.

                      Comment

                      • Jack H.
                        Extremely Frequent Poster
                        • April 1, 1990
                        • 9906

                        #12
                        Re: How about mice?

                        Engine was on a stand in the garage (attached to house) and exhaust mani's were open as well as the AFB carb NOT being covered with air cleaner + filter. For cars that sit for long periods of time, I recommend finding an appropriate 'plug' for the exhaust pipes (tennis ball, large cork, Etc.) and seal 'em off on engine shut down for the storage period. Not only will this keep the pesky critters away, it will 'help' thwart the oxidation/rust formation of engine internals due to airborne moisture. Remember, when the engine stops, some cylinders and valves will sit open at random....

                        Comment

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