67 TI 350 HP Starting Problem - NCRS Discussion Boards

67 TI 350 HP Starting Problem

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  • Gary S.
    Super Moderator
    • February 1, 1984
    • 457

    67 TI 350 HP Starting Problem

    Can anyone make a suggestion as to what my problem is? I have a 67 350 HP with TI. Starter cranks it fine, but won't start. There is no fire from the coil wire to the distributor which is all I have determined so far. However, if I tow the car it will jump start off the clutch. After it is started once, it will start with the starter instantly up to two hours after it was started the first time. So, it seems the car will not start when the engine is cold.

    Thanks, Gary #7140
    Avatar--My first ever vette, owned 3X since 1977, restored 1993-2024. Top Flight Award 9/14/24
  • Jim T.
    Expired
    • March 1, 1993
    • 5351

    #2
    Re: 67 TI 350 HP Starting Problem

    I don't know what your porblem is since you don't get any electrical indication from the coil wire when you try to start it.
    When you towed your 67 and it started, your alternator could of been putting out 14+ volts that could of somehow engerized the circuit? This is speculation I really don't know.
    Starting for two hours after running but not starting after two hours of running?? After driving the alternator will charge the battery up to full charge which if checked with a voltmeter immediately after driving will be more than 12+ volts and the car will start.
    If you have a battery charger and a volt meter, first check the voltage of the battery after two hours or when cold. Then charge the battery even if it has 12 volts on the volt meter. How long, this is your choice. Measure the voltage and try to start it. You could also contact the TI rebuilder that advertises in the NCRS Driveline for his input.

    Comment

    • William C.
      NCRS Past President
      • May 31, 1975
      • 6037

      #3
      Re: 67 TI 350 HP Starting Problem

      Try opening the connection at the TI amplifier, cleaning the terminals and reconnectng. This conection is very sensitive on the TI system.
      Bill Clupper #618

      Comment

      • Duke W.
        Beyond Control Poster
        • January 1, 1993
        • 15657

        #4
        Re: 67 TI 350 HP Starting Problem

        Moisture gets into this connection and can corrode the terminals and pins. Check both the pins and receptacles and the solder joints of the harness terminals to the wires. When you reinstall the connector put a thin film of silicone dielectic grease on the rubber terminal boots to help keep moisture out.

        Duke

        Comment

        • Mike M.
          NCRS Past President
          • May 31, 1974
          • 8379

          #5
          Re: 67 TI 350 HP Starting Problem

          gary make sure the ground wire that fastens to the core support is functioning. I scratch paint off core support in the vicinity of the attaching point and use two external tooth star washers(one on each side of the ground wire spade) the coat it all liberally with silicone dialectric paste(3M product or delco brand) regards mike

          Comment

          • Joe C.
            Expired
            • August 31, 1999
            • 4598

            #6
            Ballast Resistor *NM*

            Comment

            • Rob A.
              Expired
              • December 1, 1991
              • 2126

              #7
              Re: 67 TI 350 HP Starting Problem

              Gary, log on to www.cranescorvettes.com, there are several pages under T.I. systems. Keep looking until you find the area regarding troubleshooting and possible causes. There is a lot of info there, and it may help.

              Comment

              • G B.
                Expired
                • December 1, 1974
                • 1407

                #8
                I think Bill Clupper hit it.

                There are two separate hot wires used by the TI amp box: one when the ignition key is in "start" (while starter is engaged) and another when you let the key go and it pops back to "on". When you were tow starting, I assume the key was in the "on" position.

                Usually the bad connection is in the amp box plug-in terminal. Perhaps you have a connection so tenuous that slight thermal expansion can improve it.

                But I don't expect you to take my word for it. After all, I also believe in using Stewart water pumps, 40 year old magnesium wheels, Sun timing lights without a "dial-back", and FI manometers. I even used leaded gasoline to wash parts with my bare hands as a teenager. So much for my "good" ideas.

                Comment

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