C2 Front-end Rebuild

[George C.]

I am about to tear the front end of my 65 Roadster apart for a rebuild. I have new ball joints, tie-rod ends, control arm bushings etc. I have rented a spring compressor, but could not find the kind discussed in the Service Manual. Has anyone had success or problems using a conventional spring compressor on the mid year front coils? Also can the control arm bushings be succesfully installed without the "spreader" tools used in the service manual? Any help is appreciated.

Thank you,

George

#36809

[Wayne C.]

Re: C2 Front-end Rebuild

You need to buy or rent the internal-style spring compressor, which you insert through the lower A-arm after removing the shock. Actually, you can remove the spring just using a floor jack, but it's safer to use a spring compressor and you'll need one to re-install the spring anyway.

Another method is to fashion your own spring compressor out of a threaded rod of about 7/16 th diameter (I think), using matching nuts, washers, and some 1/4 inch flat stock... this type of compressor is fed down through the upper shock mount hole to engage a cross-piece (with curled ends to entrap the spring coil... made by you) that holds the spring coils near the lower end. Add a washer and lock 2 nuts below the cross-piece, then simply use a washer, nut, and 2 more locked nuts at the top end of the rod, in that order, turning the free nut against the washer with a wrench while holding the locked nuts with a second wrench.

I made my own "press" (out of flat stock and some long bolts with nuts) to compress the trailing arm front bushings enough to allow me to mushroom the sleeves to hold the shims.

[Stephen L.]

Re: C2 Front-end Rebuild

I rented an "inside" compressor for the front springs. It would NOT fit into the bottom "shock" hole. If you have standard suspension the space between the coils is limited for any spring compressor. I made a fixture that utilized the shock mount hole on top as previously suggested. This worked well, however you'll need to find some grade 5 or grade 8 rod stock and nuts. The "Lowe's special" rod stock will "gaul" under the load of the compressed spring.

The bushings can be removed/installed using conventional tools and some "ingenuity" and a little "grunt" work.

[Pete Whelan]

Re: C2 Front-end Rebuild

George,
Get a 3 foot section of 5/8" diameter threaded rod with nuts and large diameter washers from your local hardware store. The trick is to get enough thread area to prevent galling under load; smaller diameter rods may not work as well. Be sure to use some lubricant on the threads and nut and you shouldn't have any problems compressing and releasing the springs. I've used mine several times on my '66. I've also removed and installed the A-arm bushings without using the factory "spreader" tools. Good luck.

Pete

[Wayne C.]

Re: C2 Front-end Rebuild

You can cut down on the galling by using a little chassis grease on the threaded rod; the normal hardware store threaded rod will suffice for a couple of uses with the grease.

[George C.]

Re: C2 Front-end Rebuild

To all who responded.

Thanks as always, I was able to get the springs out with the internal spring compressor, and a little patience to work the hooks up into the coils. The whole forn end is out and I have parts everywhere. I have used a die grinder and have two of the old ball joints out, two more to go. most of the frame is cleaned and ready to paint. Now to get the control arms cleaned, painted and new ball joints and bushings installed.

Thanks again.

George