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Rear wheel bearings

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  • Mike Arteaga

    Rear wheel bearings

    I have them apart with the spindles out and much to my suprise looks like the bearings where changed even though the parking brake was never touched!! I'm wondering if there is any need to change the races which appear to be smooth as glass? I have bearing puller and got the bearings off the spindle and have the set-up tool to check the end play before final assembly but would appreciate any tips you veterans out there can give!! thanks!! Mike Arteaga #34566
  • Joe L.
    Beyond Control Poster
    • February 1, 1988
    • 43203

    #2
    Re: Rear wheel bearings

    Mike-----

    I would always recommend changing the races. You've already done the hard part; why not do the easy part and get the job done right? Changing the races is really quite easy. However, it might not be so easy if the trailing arms are still in the car. That's because the races have to be driven in absolutely fully. It's hard to do this without backing up the spindle support in an absolutely solid manner.

    If the trailing arms are out of the car, just knock out the races using a steel drift and the 2 reliefs provided in the bearing suppot to access the rear side of each of the races. Then, drive in the new races using a bearing race driver or improvised tool. They MUST be fully seated.
    In Appreciation of John Hinckley

    Comment

    • Duke W.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • January 1, 1993
      • 15649

      #3
      Re: Rear wheel bearings

      If you change the races, you have to change the bearings. Though they are interchangeable when new, used bearings should be considered matched to their respective races.

      You didn't mention the bearing rollers themselves, but if close visual inspection with a magnifying glass does not show any evidence of spalling, I would consider the bearing/race sets to be reuseable.

      Use a full synthetic "disk brake" wheel bearing grease and make sure the end play is in spec. I prefer getting it close to minimum, and you can trim down the next size shim on some 400 paper on a flat surface to achieve close to minimum spec end play.

      Duke

      Comment

      • Mike Sasser

        #4
        Re: Rear wheel bearings

        Mike, I couldn't get my races out in my 65 with a drift, they were just stuck in there and the only way I finally got them out was using a short piece of small square steel stock cut to length to fit across the races and into the reliefs in the races. They then were easily knocked out. I think this procedure is in the 63 shop manual.

        Comment

        • Mike Arteaga

          #5
          Re: Rear wheel bearings

          I assume that the "support housing" that encloses the bearing races can be removed from the trailing arms can be removed without removing the trailing arms? This way I can get the races out without removing the trailing arms and press the races out? From the scatter sheet this looks possible?? Am I correct?Thanks guys for your help! Mike Arteaga

          Comment

          • Joe L.
            Beyond Control Poster
            • February 1, 1988
            • 43203

            #6
            Re: Rear wheel bearings

            Mike-----

            Yes, you're correct. Removal of the bearing support assembly is VERY possible with the trailing arm still mounted on the car. It's especially easy if you have the spindle removed. Remove the four nuts retaining the bearing support to the t-arm and it's out.
            In Appreciation of John Hinckley

            Comment

            • Mike Arteaga

              #7
              Re: Rear wheel bearings

              Thanks Joe!! Mike

              Comment

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