Removing a 1968 Rear end

[John D.]

I have removed the exhaust system, the traverse spring, drive and 1/2 shafts. Also the rear end front mounting bolt and the two bolts on each end of the rear cross member. I don't see any thing else holding the rearend and cross member in place but it won't come loose. I sprayed the bushing/frame area with penetrating oil, but it still won't come loose. Did I miss some bolts?? Or is the bushing rusted to the frame. Any suggestions how to break it loose without destroying the cross member bushings?

Thanks, John.

[Harmon C.]

Re: Removing a 1968 Rear end

If you check the archives this is a common problem and most post say pry it off as years of rust is holding it up. Be carefull when it drops it comes right now and you could get hurt . Put long bolts in the ends of the crossmember or chain it up.

[Roberto L.]

Re: Removing a 1968 Rear end

Hello, I did it recently. I followed some advices and used a two leg extractor in each side at a time. I helped with a bar and came out easily. Some woods below the case to avoid damage at 1 inch distance. Slowwwwly.

Roberto, NCRS #30019, RMC

[Craig S.]

Re: Removing a 1968 Rear end

John - I also like to install some longer catch bolts in the sombrero mounts to prevent any damage or safety problems when the mounts do let loose. You can pry and pop the mounts loose with a large crow bar, but I used a 3 leg puller on mine coupled with prying...it worked well...Craig

[Chuck R.]

Re: Good Ole WD-40

Sprayed on the rubber sombrero mounts and some down pressure with a pry bar will realease the crossmember's grip.

I totally agree running extra long bolts through each mount to catch the crossmember and diff. when they drop, but don't totally rely on them, also have a floor jack positioned an inch or so below the diff. with a piece of heavy rubber on it to take the intial drop when it pops free.

The bolts will help to keep it relatively in place side to side wise.

Take your time and apply steady pressure with the pry bar, they will free up.

Good luck,

Chuck

[Craig S.]

Re: Good Ole WD-40

I have found this varies in difficulty from car to car...my 74 came right off, while my 67 was really tight...it came all at once with a loud bang. I agree with your extra support by floor jack or whatever means, I had the luxury of using a 4 post lift, and had my transmission jack under the carrier. It was still somewhat of a "surprise" when it let go, sort of a controlled explosion type of separation. Surprisingly, there was very little rust on the sombrero's in spite of the difficult removal...Craig

[John D.]

Thanks for the advice *NM*