I looked through the entire archives, but could not find any specific recommendations for initial settings of Koni shocks. I just picked up a set of 8040's for my 1967 435 horse car (originally equipped with F41). The Koni websites suggest that they be set at the full soft position, but for a more aggressive feel, most people find the optimum setting to be 1/2 to 1 full turn from full soft. The shocks have ~5 half-turns from softest to stiffest- Any ideas?
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Re: Adjusting Koni Shocks on a Mid Year
Joe:
We ran a set of Koni shocks on my wife's 65 small block for about twenty-five years and about 35,000 miles. Put them on at softest setting and left them there. They were always stiff enough for most all of our normal street driving and racing and still are. I would suggest you try them at the lowest setting and adjust from there. Of course it depends on how much you plan on pushing it in the corners.
Gary -
Re: Adjusting Koni Shocks on a Mid Year
If you car does, indeed, have the F-41 option the wheel rates are about DOUBLE a base suspension car, and they will require a lot of rebound damping to control body bounce. You can start with them in the original position and see how they work, but in order to adjust them to a firmer rebound setting, you will have to remove them from the car.
That's why I like Spax shocks. They can be adjusted on the car, so I can get the damping dialed in in an afternoon on my favorite test roads.
DukeComment
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Re: Adjusting Koni Shocks on a Mid Year
Thank you for you input.
Although I have not actually tried it, it seems like you could adjust the front shocks by removing the top nut/ bushing and use a shock socket and a long extension to compress the shock enough to engage the adjustment index. In the back, if you removed the lower nut/ bushings, it seems like you could adjust the shock by hand-
Am I missing something here?!?Comment
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Re: Adjusting Koni Shocks on a Mid Year
Your proposed method might work. I had a set of Konis on my '72 Vega GT back in the seventies. I pulled them off the car and adjusted them once after about 50K miles. I recall that it takes a little tweaking to engage the foot valve adjustment, which is easy to do with the shock on the bench.
IMO it would be alot easier to just remove the shocks. It's really not that much work to take both ends off as opposed to one.
Maybe someone else had tried to do it on the car by just disconnecting one end and can relate the experience.
DukeComment
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