C-3 rear shock mounts/ strut bolt

[John D.]

I have read that on a 68 the removal of the rear shock mount "L" bolt with the strut rod is a real job, mine are rusted fast. I have been spraying them with penetrating oil for about a week now. I understand that VanSteel makes a tool for removal that will not damage the threads, but you still need to beat on the bolt. As an alternate could I use a torch to heat the assembly (not the bolt) so it expands and the bolt comes out easier? Or am I going to potentially damage the casting from the heat?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

John.

[David H.]

Re: C-3 rear shock mounts/ strut bolt

The shock mount bolt was rusted fast to the strut rod on my 1980. I broke the far side "ear" off the spindle support trying to remove it. (Nuts!) You do need a shock mount removal tool. Be sure to keep it tight on the bolt when you are pounding. Van Steel has a video on suspension rebuilding that helps, but the car in the video came apart LOTS easier than mine did.

I sprayed the bolt and strut rod end with PB Blaster for several days. After I removed the (broken) ear/strut rod/bolt I found that no penetrant had gotten to the inside of the strut rod/shock mount bolt.

If the suspension has never been apart, the bolt/strut rod may be rusted together pretty tight. In retrospect, I think I would fashion a "baggie" around the bolt/strut rod/ spindle "ears" and fill it with brake fluid or a similar penetrant. Keep the parts immersed for a few days, then try to pound them apart.

The bolts are about $45, the spindle support is about $170, so if you are going to destroy something, I'd choose the bolt.

[Rob A.]

Re: C-3 rear shock mounts/ strut bolt

Try heating up the spindle support around the mount, then put ice water on the shock mount shaft. (It really works) Also, brake fluid works even better than most penetrating liquids to free rusted parts.