Re: Another Bad Frame - 1966 Chassis Restoration
Looks Great Richard! You should try sleeping some time!
Looks Great Richard! You should try sleeping some time!
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Re: Another Bad Frame - 1966 Chassis Restoration
Why the open breather cap? I thought all 350 hp were closed vent system?Comment
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Re: Another Bad Frame - 1966 Chassis Restoration
Tom, You are correct. Lots wrong here. This was a 300hp that was converted to a 350 "look" over 20 years ago by a prior owner. The oil fill tube is wrong, should be screw on closed chrome cap, s/b a side pipe to the PCV valve(which I will try to correct without removing the tube from it's RTV'd joint to the intake and break it), accel spring bracket in the wrong place(which will be corrected by me), wrong water pump, s/b top bypass elbow/hose to the intake, wrong harmonic balancer(still the 300hp flavor), etc, etc.
You should see the air cleaner base plumbing to the rear breather port tube. It's horrible. And the distributor VAC is hard against the shield bracket, with it's #1 plug wire offset by one in the #2 position, likely off a gear tooth (which I'll correct after a runup), Big Block Posi differential with bolted caps on the inner pinions, added sidepipes(which IMO is a good thing), hole-filled rear valance where the tailpipes used to exit, right hand door mirror(also maybe a good thing in Florida), wrong tach and oil gauge, re-color paint change job, etc, etc.
Also, with a repro frame, a hand laid one piece nose and hand laid rear quarters, prior 6 tail light conversion with now shadowed repairs, and countless other oddities, I don't think a few nuances will affect it's lineage.
I guess the important thing with this car, is that it's pretty body paint job to arrest-me-red from Milano maroon with it's dangerous and near fatal chassis and fuel line and electrical system is being resurrected from it's potential scrap pile or candidate as a restomod body donation.
It's a hot rod. Never to be judged. Main objective is a example of what the rust does to these plastic classics and the only way to fix the bones.
RichComment
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Re: Body Drop and License Plate Mount Hole Repair
Body is back on. Went without a hitch. However, being a new reproduction VPM frame, I just winged-it for shims, 2 at each spot, 3 at the #4 rear mounts. I have to t w e a k positioning and check gaps. May need to add or remove some. I just raise/lower using my lift if I need to adjust shims. When I get it right I'll chalk mark the frame too for the "look".
Before drop, I noticed those darn rear license plate mount holes all wallowed out from a square hole to a round hole on each side. So I had to fix them as now is the time. Masking tape on the outside and fill in the inside. I use strong Vette Panel Adhesive, and while it's kicking off and like stiff clay I use a spokshave on the inside to flatten the blob and a x-acto blade to cut the squares out. All fixed before the drop happened.
Pics of the steps I use. After curing, about 20 minutes, I Dremel the inside to get the thickness just right for the plastic tabs to properly lock when the screw is installed.
Days before drop I cleaned up the birdcage sills the best I could and re-coated them. I used the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating in a detail sprayer and a small brush in the tough spots.
===Last edited by Richard M.; August 18, 2016, 07:23 AM.Comment
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Re: Body Drop and License Plate Mount Hole Repair
Looks terrific Rust ............ I mean Rich!
coming to Wisconsin any time soon?
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Re: Body Drop and License Plate Mount Hole Repair
Rich, do you prefer the Evercoat Vette panel adhesive over the 3M 8115 that Joe Ray likes as a panel adhesive? What are your thoughts? I need to replace a 67 tail light panel and having a hard time justifying the cost of the 3M gun for what might be a one time use.
TomComment
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Re: Body Drop and License Plate Mount Hole Repair
Definitely 3M epoxy on a big panel like that. The first time I ever used it was on a 59 nose. Saved me much stress. The epoxy is merciful. It has long work time and cure time. This gives you plenty of time to fixture it and even remove/reinstall if you had a major hiccup. Once I used a MEK(hardener) based adhesive, like the VPA, on a large body panel. The MEK was no good and I didn't know it. I waited and waited and the panel never properly cured. I had to take it apart, scrape the uncured adhesive off, and start over. I then used the 3M 8815.
Other times, I've made errors after the fast(sometimes a few minutes in high temps) cure of the MEK products. Then the saws and grinder wheel had to come out. The gun prices have come down. I think you can get the economy version gun for around 50-60 bucks. I borrowed one from a body shop friend several times. It'll be worth the price of the gun for insurance. The professional guns are well over $300.
Just noticed this 3M 38315 product, with the applicator. This may be a option too. But not sure if enough product for the panel size.
Rich
edit ps, btw, I've used the 3m 8115 without the gun. I used 2 wood dowels and just pressed them into the tube together(without the mixing tip) to get a even bead on a plate and mixed by hand. Another option.Comment
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Re: Body Drop and License Plate Mount Hole Repair
Rich, I will be getting the 3M 8115. Is 1- 200ml cartridge enough for that panel or should I have more. Amazon has a gun and cartridge kit for $99.98 with free shipping. There may be better deals as well. Additional cartridges are $40. When this car is finished there is the matter of a 69 GTO that my wife (she calls it her car) says is next, so I guess the gun may get used on that project as well. I think the gun will speed up the process rather than 2 dowels and hand mixing.
TomComment
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Re: Body Drop and License Plate Mount Hole Repair
Tom, The standard cartridge will be plenty for a tail light panel. I used 2 1/4 of those cartridges for a complete one-piece '59 nose, which had a very large bond area. The 2 dowels idea I used was after I returned the borrowed gun, and being an impatient person, I didn't want to wait.
RichComment
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Re: Clutch Pedal Rod Clevis to Cross Shaft Typicality
Typicality? If that's a word.
Something doesn't seem right with the position of the clevis on the pedal rod. I have about a inch of pedal freeplay, and the clutch seems to work/move fine(no engine start yet), but I can tell it releases when I shift gears as it loosens the shifter bind.
Right, wrong, problem? I'm recalling the clevis was and should be near the end of the rod. But I did have that disassembly issue when I discovered the throwout bearing to the fork was mounted wrong(one fork finger inside, and one outside the groove) when I took it apart. The cross shaft is original and correct afaik.
RichComment
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Re: Another Bad Frame - 1966 Chassis Restoration
Rich
Agree Clevis seems way up on rod but seems to be good otherwise - my picture is a 65 /250 reassembled with a slightly worn clutch plate and a resurviced flywheel and it went from the middle of the rod to nearly the end with proper free playComment
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Re: Another Bad Frame - 1966 Chassis Restoration
Richard,
Great photos of your work,I would like to save these for future reference,thank's for posting.
p s seems a shame to cover this frame up with a body....
FrancisComment
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Re: Another Bad Frame - 1966 Chassis Restoration
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Thanks for the info and photo John. For now I'm attributing this clevis position maybe a artifact of the earlier TO bearing improper installation issue. I'll report back when the car moves, very soon.
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Thanks Francis. All car photos start to finish in this link.....http://s684.photobucket.com/user/ric...66_Restoration
It's a public site so you can download anything at any time. I update it daily when I can.
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Quick Update....
Car needs the exhaust sidepipes reinstalled, coolant, and fuel and ready to run up. I got 4 new Uniroyal Tiger Paws WSW(3/4") yesterday (Pics) and ready to go back on too after a cleaning of the blue protectant. Then a trailered trip to the alignment shop next week and hopefully complete.
Rear bumpers done yesterday and today I went to install the fronts, but I found 2 restored center braces in the box of parts. There were two Lefts,
, so I have to wait for a Right brace ordered today, due Monday, and also ordered a new fan clutch until we get the original restored. Fan Clutch pics and info HERE.
I also silver painted the re-chromed Grille. I used a original used unit as a guide.
Full sequence of process pics HERE. Took about a hour. It took a little time wiping the overspray off of the small front edges with some swabs and solvent. I'm pleased with results.
RichComment
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