72 clock

[Jeff W.]

I have had my clock reworked twice and now it is not working again. Everytime I have re-installed it works great for the first 4 or 5 times I disconnect the battery. Then when I reconnect the battery it will not start and I will move the hour hands and it starts until finally that will not work. I am about tired of tearing the dash apart. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks

[Harmon C.]

Re: 72 clock

Jeff
If they would replace the complete part with a new one and just reuse your case I think you have a better chance it will keep runing. I have installed the new works many times but have not bought any lately but I think the company was Roscoe something.
Lyle

[Patrick H.]

Re: 72 clock

Lyle is (partly) correct.

After I R&R'ed my clock in my 72 and it quit working on my way to a Regional, I puchased a new one and it's worked perfectly ever since.

They are made by:
Instrument Services, Inc.
Roscoe, IL

[Jeff W.]

Re: 72 clock

Thanks guys.

[Joe L.]

Re: 72 clock

Jeff-----

What you are describing is a common problem for folks that insist on using an old "tic-toc" type automotive clock movement for "originality" considerations. These things were ALWAYS problematic. In fact, in the "old days" most folks didn't even bother to fix the clocks in their cars when they failed because they new that the repaired or replaced clock would soon suffer the same fate as the old one. In the "old days" I rarely was in a car with an operating clock, even relatively new cars.

PART of the problem, though, has to do with the failure of folks to follow the correct procedure when reconnecting the battery after battery disconnection. There is an important procedure to follow that about 99.9% of folks today do not know about. Even in the "old days" when "tic-toc" movements were the standard, about 95% of the folks didn't know about it. As I say, that's PART of the reason for so many failed clocks. The rest of the reason is the fundamental nature of the automotive "tic-toc" movement.

You will find that as simple as the procedure is, it will constitute a major PIA. That's because it will need to be repeated several times before achieving the condition described. This might take 30 minutes, in total, before it's all over-and-done-with. It'll make you dread having to disconnect the battery.

So, what's the best solution? That's easy: JUNK THE "TIC-TOC" movement and install a modern quartz movement. The procedure becomes irrelevant with a quartz movement. What's more, the clock will actually keep good time without being constantly reset (another notorious "foilble" of "tic-toc" automotive clock movements.

But, if one insists on a "tic-toc" movement, the procedure I mentioned is attached.

[Gerard Q.]

Re: 72 clock

I had the Clock Works replace my spare clocks movement with a NOS Borg movement....the clock that's in my car now has a quartz movement.....after reading Joe's explanation on resetting it after a battery disconnect I'm glad I haven't replaced it yet. However if you wanted another rescource in replacing the movement of your clock with a NOS rather than a rebuilt you might want to check them out.

http://www.clockwks.com/CLOCKWORKS/The_Clock_Worx.html

[Jeff W.]

Re: 72 clock

Joe, Thanks for helping me to understand this frustrating situation. I have some thinking to do on which way to go, but it sure sounds like a pain just to have a ticking clock. Everytime I tear into the dash I am afraid of breaking something and it just too time consuming. I think the thing to do is get it ready to cruise and worry about it next winter.
Thanks again.
Jeff

[Roberto L.]

Re: 72 clock

Wow! this is new for me. I'm an idiot or the manual doesn't mention about this procedure, nor the AIM or the CSM?

Thanks Joe, I noticed the spark... The procedure calls for everything off, naturally, but what about the alarm or other system that doesn't come to my mind?

Thanks, Roberto, NCRS #30019, RMC

[Harmon C.]

Re: 72 clock

Roberto

The way I read this the most important thing is the clock has stoped running so if you allways have the battery off two minutes or more it may not be a problem. I changed the works in 93 in one Vett I still own. It is the tic-toc and it still runs fine and the battery must have been shut off a thousand times or more in the last 13 years.

Lyle

[Joe L.]

Re: 72 clock

Roberto-----

The alarm and everything else in the car can be turned off. Only the clock cannot be turned off.

[Jack H.]

What the precaution note is saying...

is don't 'tease' the clock's contact points. When you install a battery cable on the battery post, you can wind up moving it around until it firmly seats. If the clock has wound itself down, the contact points for the winding solenoid are closed.

If you install the cable onto the battery and wind up turning power ON/OFF/ON/OFF eratically until the cable is firmly on the battery post, you can wind up 'teasing' the clock's contact points and burning them via arcing. The worst case is you get them 'welding' closed which is NOT a 'good' thing...

BUT, clock contact points are hearty little critters and they regularly open/close on their own during normal clock operation. Plus, most of us have battery cut-off switches installed and those with the knife switch design (vs the green 'wonder' knob) bring system power up/down nice and neatly.

So, the note is a decent precaution, but I wouldn't loose too much sleep over the potential for damage....

[Charles P.]

Re: What the precaution note is saying...

Now that you mention it I have a screw on type battery cutoff switch which I have always thought was an eratic way to cut power off and on in the car.
How should I be reenergizing the circuit to the clock? When I reconnect the clock the contacts pop apart and deenergize the coil. The clock is now wound. Normally I would just continue to quickly tighten the knob til tight. The lights (door open) might flicker once or twice during this operation. If I am reading the above correctly it is saying to energize, deenergize then tighten? I'm lost. The reason I'm asking is I've replace 2 clocks in a year and the first one was a low miles clock rebuild that worked fine until cutting off the battery then--never again which leads me to believe it was started improperly.

[Jeff W.]

Re: 72 clock

Joe, I tried doing what you said, but I never got a spark. When I first installed the clock and hooked up the battery I would hear a click and the clock would start running. New when I hook it up I hear nothing. I have tried leaving the battery hook up for hours and still nothing. Can you clarify what you mean by "turning everything off"?
Thanks for your help.
jeff

[Joe L.]

Re: What the precaution note is saying...

Charles-----

What you describe is usually exactly the way it happens. The clock works fine until the battery is disconnected. Then, when the battery is re-connected, it never works again.

[Joe L.]

Re: 72 clock

jeff----

With the ignition switch in the "off" position and everything else that can be energized independent of the ignition switch position (e.g. headlamps, alarm system, cigarette lighter, etc.) turned "off", you have the condition you need to do the "clock thing". If you get no spark when you touch the battery terminal to the battery post, that's good. That means you're all done.