Junk!
I put in one of those cheapo $70 imported fuel senders in my 67 about a year ago and it worked fine for a while. But then it started acting up and the gas gage would never go below 3/4 full, even though the tank was almost empty. Yes, when you pushed the float up and down the needle would go from full to empty, then would settle at 3/4 full.
So I figured the contacts were dirty and decided to try cleaning them yesterday afternoon. Tried to wiggle the "S" lead off, and what do you know, here comes a few drips of gasoline. Figured that the terminal nut was a little loose, so I tried a little more force. Then drip, drip, drip, drip, now I've got a problem!
Found my siphon hose, a 5 gallon and 1 gallon gas can, and almost got a swig of gasoline. Luckily, I only had 6 gallons in the tank.
So today I took it out, and here's what I found:
The terminals are not threaded at all, they are just pressed in and are retained with a speed nut. No way to tighten them like the original(with the nuts on the right). Also noticed that the varible resistor is completely different. Whereas, the original has a delicate contactor on a spring pivot, this repro has a little bullet on a shaft with a spring.
I tested both and found that the repro was way off the ohms, and the original was right on with 90 ohms just as is stamped on the resistor housing.
Found that the only thing that was wrong with my original, was a broken lead to the variable resistor. So I got out the soldering gun, and soldered the lead back on.
Put my repaired original back in and now my gas gage works just fine.
Moral of the story: Don't buy cheap repro sh...junk, buy OEM. How can they sell this stuff!
Thanks, Jack H. for the wiring diagram and troubleshooting chart.
Still having fun, but a trying day.
Jerry Fuccillo
#42179
I put in one of those cheapo $70 imported fuel senders in my 67 about a year ago and it worked fine for a while. But then it started acting up and the gas gage would never go below 3/4 full, even though the tank was almost empty. Yes, when you pushed the float up and down the needle would go from full to empty, then would settle at 3/4 full.
So I figured the contacts were dirty and decided to try cleaning them yesterday afternoon. Tried to wiggle the "S" lead off, and what do you know, here comes a few drips of gasoline. Figured that the terminal nut was a little loose, so I tried a little more force. Then drip, drip, drip, drip, now I've got a problem!
Found my siphon hose, a 5 gallon and 1 gallon gas can, and almost got a swig of gasoline. Luckily, I only had 6 gallons in the tank.
So today I took it out, and here's what I found:
The terminals are not threaded at all, they are just pressed in and are retained with a speed nut. No way to tighten them like the original(with the nuts on the right). Also noticed that the varible resistor is completely different. Whereas, the original has a delicate contactor on a spring pivot, this repro has a little bullet on a shaft with a spring.
I tested both and found that the repro was way off the ohms, and the original was right on with 90 ohms just as is stamped on the resistor housing.
Found that the only thing that was wrong with my original, was a broken lead to the variable resistor. So I got out the soldering gun, and soldered the lead back on.
Put my repaired original back in and now my gas gage works just fine.
Moral of the story: Don't buy cheap repro sh...junk, buy OEM. How can they sell this stuff!
Thanks, Jack H. for the wiring diagram and troubleshooting chart.
Still having fun, but a trying day.
Jerry Fuccillo
#42179
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