engine compartment restoration questions

[Steve G.]

I am trying to restore engine compartment on my 1970. Am trying to get it as close as possible to factory. One of the rivets for the alarm system underhood switch is missing. I bought some soft aluminum rivets from Dr Rebuild. Any suggestions on how to install one of these rivets?

A previous owner painted some of the parts black in engine compartment that shouldn't be painted. For example - some of the parts for the hood spring assembly that mounts to the firewall and the 'plunger' that hits the wiper limit switch on the firewall. I am thinking I can clean them up with a scotch brite pad and/or wire wheel. Any suggestions for finishing these parts so the don't rust? Clear lacquer?

Anyone know what finish should be on the number one body mount brace that is attached to the firewall? Natural? Black?

Any suggestions for how to clean up nuts and bolts?

See attached picture showing missing rivet, and some of the parts that need to be finished. thanks, Steve

[Brandon T.]

Re: engine compartment restoration questions

I am trying to restore engine compartment on my 1970. Am trying to get it as close as possible to factory. One of the rivets for the alarm system underhood switch is missing. I bought some soft aluminum rivets from Dr Rebuild. Any suggestions on how to install one of these rivets?

A previous owner painted some of the parts black in engine compartment that shouldn't be painted. For example - some of the parts for the hood spring assembly that mounts to the firewall and the 'plunger' that hits the wiper limit switch on the firewall. I am thinking I can clean them up with a scotch brite pad and/or wire wheel. Any suggestions for finishing these parts so the don't rust? Clear lacquer?

Anyone know what finish should be on the number one body mount brace that is attached to the firewall? Natural? Black?

Any suggestions for how to clean up nuts and bolts?

See attached picture showing missing rivet, and some of the parts that need to be finished. thanks, Steve

I can give you advice on atleast how to clean them up, besides the obvious being bead blasting, parts washer & wire wheel.

Buy a tumbler..if you really want to keep original hardware like bolts it's the way to go! it tumbles them in abrasives and they'll come out looking like new.

[Steve G.]

Re: engine compartment restoration questions

thanks Brandon. I have never heard of a tumbler before. I just checked on Eastwood and saw they have them. I also saw Eastwood on Ebay - they have a heavy duty for $225 and a light duty (does up to 3 inch peices) for $103. Do you have any recommendation? Do I need to buy special media for it? And how are you finishing the hardware after - plating? thanks Steve

[Jordan S.]

Re: engine compartment restoration questions

Laquer thinner works great to undo the spray bomb resto of the prior owner. For the hood latches, I disassembled, wire wheeled the threaded shaft and spring, coated with satin clear from eastwood. For the base plate and spring retainer, I bead blasted and then used eastwood blackening solution and caswell copy cad plating system respectively. I also bead blasted and replated the nuts and washers. (Don't mind the dust in the after pic. You get the idea).

[Steve G.]

Re: engine compartment restoration questions

Thanks Jordan. Looks like it came out great. Is the plating system a paint? I assume its not real cadmium. Is that the correct factory finish? Do you dip the parts in the plating solution and where do you buy it? I noticed you have a couple of plugs on the wall that separates engin bay from area where the wiper linkage is. I believe I have at least one on my car as well. Do you know what they are for?

[Jordan S.]

Re: engine compartment restoration questions

Thanks Jordan. Looks like it came out great. Is the plating system a paint? I assume its not real cadmium. Is that the correct factory finish? Do you dip the parts in the plating solution and where do you buy it? I noticed you have a couple of plugs on the wall that separates engin bay from area where the wiper linkage is. I believe I have at least one on my car as well. Do you know what they are for?

The plating system is a home electroplating system called copy CAD from Caswell. Check out www.Caswell.com. The blacking solution is a dip and rinse application. None of this is paint. The finish is very close to original. I think the holes that are plugged allow access to te hood latch from the wiper area incase the crossover cable breaks allowing manual realease of the hood latch.

[Roberto L.]

Re: engine compartment restoration questions

Hello Steve,

I use a soft paint remover and inmediately WD40 to remove paint and grease from old original wires in the firewall. They will end very good, provided their integrity is OK.

If you like to preserve original finish perhaps you may use the same procedure in some parts. Usually a previous owner blackening is of low quuality and a soft remover will remove this layer of paint preserving the original one... I got good results using this method but you need to act fast wiping the remover with Wd40 and cleaning with a rope or similar.

Just a comment, best regards

[Steven B.]

Re: engine compartment restoration questions

thanks Brandon. I have never heard of a tumbler before. I just checked on Eastwood and saw they have them. I also saw Eastwood on Ebay - they have a heavy duty for $225 and a light duty (does up to 3 inch peices) for $103. Do you have any recommendation? Do I need to buy special media for it? And how are you finishing the hardware after - plating? thanks Steve

Steve, while at Maremont we used a Wheelabrator to prep brake baking plates and shoes for paint or plate. We used cast steel shot (similiar to small ball bearings) to prep for painting and for the smoother requirements of plating we used angular shot (sharp edges) or cast steel grit (fine cast steel dust). The shot is good for a nice satin finish with a bit of "peening texture". The light duty should work fine for your requirements.

Steve

[Alan S.]

Re: engine compartment restoration questions

Hi Steve G.,
My 71 has 2 holes in the cowl at that point. The 1 towards the center of the car has a 3 hole grommet in it for the 3 hoses from the wiper interlock switch under the right side wiper arm. You can see it through the wiper grill.
The hole towards the right side has a plastic plug in it. This plug was used for access to the hood mounted latch on the right side of the hood in case of hood release cable failure. The CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL has a diagram for a tool to be made from piece of rod to release the latch by threading it through the wiper grill, pushing out the plug, and then turning the tool to unlatch the hood. There was a copy of this info. in THE RESTORER more than a few years ago.
Regards,
Alan

[Steve G.]

Re: engine compartment restoration questions

Thanks again guys!

Is a Wheelabrator similar to a tumbler and where do you buy it and the media for it?

I have a couple brackets in engine compartment with slight amount of rust - example the brackets for #1 body mount. I was thinking of wire wheeling it and then using rust converter. Does that sound like a good idea to you or are there other preferred methods? Steve

[Patrick H.]

Re: engine compartment restoration questions

Thanks again guys!

Is a Wheelabrator similar to a tumbler and where do you buy it and the media for it?

I have a couple brackets in engine compartment with slight amount of rust - example the brackets for #1 body mount. I was thinking of wire wheeling it and then using rust converter. Does that sound like a good idea to you or are there other preferred methods? Steve

I bought a Lyman brand tumbler from Gander Mountain as it's cheaper than Eastwood. Harbor Freight carries the "green diamond" media as well as the walnut shell media. I don't need to pay Eastwood's price for those items.

FYI a bit of water, say 1/2 cup, in the bottom of the bowl along with some green diamond media does a great job of cleaning.

[Steve G.]

Re: engine compartment restoration questions

Thanks Patrick. I will probably take your advice and look for a cheap one - I see some on Ebay. I'll also buy one of the blackening kits and try to do the hardware myself to save some money.

Any thoughts on my other question - I have a couple brackets in engine compartment with slight amount of rust - example the brackets for #1 body mount. I was thinking of wire wheeling it and then using rust converter. Does that sound like a good idea to you or are there other preferred methods for rust removal and refinishing? Steve

[Patrick H.]

Re: engine compartment restoration questions

Thanks Patrick. I will probably take your advice and look for a cheap one - I see some on Ebay. I'll also buy one of the blackening kits and try to do the hardware myself to save some money.

Any thoughts on my other question - I have a couple brackets in engine compartment with slight amount of rust - example the brackets for #1 body mount. I was thinking of wire wheeling it and then using rust converter. Does that sound like a good idea to you or are there other preferred methods for rust removal and refinishing? Steve

Steve,

Don't get one too cheap. They do break, too.

Search the Archives about phosphating and plating. Tons of info and good kits, too. Check out parkerizingkits.com

I've used Safest Rust Remover, but a friend told me that CLR is about the same stuff. I'd give it a try. You just immerse the item for a while and the rust disappears. Slick as can be.

Patrick

[Steve G.]

Re: engine compartment restoration questions

Thanks Patrick. I can find CLR rust remover online, but with quick internet search, I could not find Safe Rust Remover. Is that the same as Evaporust? The parts I am referring to are rivetted on, so I'd rather clean / paint them while still attached to engine compartment if thats possilbe. Steve

[Steve G.]

Re: engine compartment restoration questions

Sorry, I spoke too soon. I just found safestrustremover.com. There is a slide show there showing before and after photo's. I will be buying a gallon of that! Steve