T-10 Installation in a 58-60

[Mark P.]

I will be installing a T-10 in my 1960 in the next month and wanted to know are there any special tools (i.e. an alignment tool) I need to get the linkage adjusted properly.

I was planning to put my engine on a cherry picker and install the flywheel, bellhousing, clutch assembly and clutch fork. I was then planning to set the T-10 on a table and bolt it to the bellhousing then install the OEM shifter and linkage.

Any advice on getting the linkage set properly ? Is there a lot that can go wrong ? Will I need to be able to depress the clutch fork ?

The linkage is new from Paragon. Since I had a Muncie in my car and a Hurst shifter, I have no reference from any of that set-up.

[Bruce B.]

Re: T-10 Installation in a 58-60

When you install the clutch use the proper tool to be sure the disk is centered. I like to use an old input shaft since it is much more accurate then the plastic ones usually supplied with the clutch.
I usually put the linkage on the trans and adjust it before putting it in the car.
Stock type 4 speed linkage has a slot cut in the top of the 3 shift arms. You put a metal bar in to line up the 3 arms then adjust the linkage with the transmission in neutral.
You can then put some masking tape on where the linkage adjusts to hold the position. Remove the shifter and re-install on the trans when it is in the car.
I believe this procedure might be in the ST-12 Service Guide and it also has the size of thye metal bar used to hold the arms in neutral position.
Good Luck.

[Mark P.]

Re: T-10 Installation in a 58-60

ST-12 didn't have much but there is some useful info in the 59-60 Passenger Car Supplement. It is not very clear but I'll give it a go.

When the levers on the T-10 are in a vertical position the transmission should be in neutral, right ? I would then insert the alignment block then install the linkage, right ?

Should I try to install the Engine, transmission, linkage and shifter all as a unit ? Should I leave the transmission crossmember off ?

Is the speedometer drive gear from a Muncie (casting 3851325 circa 1964-1965 with the 7/8 counter shaft) and a T-10 interchangeable ?

[Joe R.]

Re: T-10 Installation in a 58-60

Mark,

I have never tried to install the engine with the trans attached but I know it can be done. You would have to be able to tilt the assembly at an acute angle and leave the crossmember off.

As far as the DRIVE gear, they are interchangeable with the Muncie as long as you have the correct driven gear for the T-10. The T-10 and the Muncie driven gears are NOT interchangeable.

The drive gear is on the output shaft.

The driven gear is the side gear that can be exchanged after the trans is assembled.

I believe GM has discontinued all the drive and driven gears for the T-10 but there could be some still in the system.

JR

[Mark P.]

Re: T-10 Installation in a 58-60

Joe - I see the Drive Gear is the same from 1955-1967.

CC doesn't list a Driven gear for a 1960 but lists like 9 for the 1965.

Will any of these work for a T-10 ?



Mark

[John H.]

Re: T-10 Installation in a 58-60

CC doesn't list a Driven gear for a 1960 but lists like 9 for the 1965.

Will any of these work for a T-10 ? Mark

Mark -

The link didn't work for me, but in my experience, the "large" and "small" diameter DRIVEN gear families for the Muncie, T-10, and Powerglide are the same dimensions.

[David K.]

Re: T-10 Installation in a 58-60

One thing I wish I would have checked better before putting my T10 in was the speedo gears. Yes, one gear is real easy to replace. The other is not, without having the trans. appart. I will probably just drive mine as it is since I know I am exactly 10 MPH off. I certainly would have changed it though, if I knew before putting it in.

[Bruce B.]

Re: T-10 Installation in a 58-60

If I remember correctly there are 2 drive gears. One for a 3.55 differential and lower and the other for a 3.70 differential and higher.
Therefore if you have a factory setup with a T10 and a 3.70 rear end you can't change the driven gear to use with a 3.36 rear.
Any other input about this?

[Stephen R.]

Re: T-10 Installation in a 58-60

35 years ago, I installed my engine with the trans attached. Made the job a lot easier. Take off the hood, radiator, etc jack the front up to give you clearance under the trans tunnel for the steep angle. Take your time and slide it in. Use a steep angle at first then as the unit goes in flatten out the angle. Go slooooow. Also don't put the carb or distributor on until engine is in. Keep the exhaust pipes out of the engine bay. Watch the fuel pump if you have installed it. Also, while the engine is on the hook but basically horizontal, install the engine mounts. Go slow.

[Mark P.]

Re: T-10 Installation in a 58-60

Stephen - did you leave the shifter on ? I was thinking I might leave one engine mount on but thought leaving both would be too tight.

The fuel pump will probably be installed after the engine is in.



Mark

[Mike E.]

Re: T-10 Installation in a 58-60

I've never, in about 20 installs on a solid-axle car,ever tried to install engine and tranny with the shifter .

I would try it if:

1) you really enjoy getting the engine and tranny part way in and then getting them stuck and having to work very hard to get them back out.

2) You want to scar up the underside of the body

3) You think a bent and scratched shifter is a thing of beauty

[Mark P.]

Re: T-10 Installation in a 58-60

Thanks Mike. The kind of answer I was looking for. I will set up the linkage then remove the shifter and intall the engine/trans.

[Stephen R.]

Re: T-10 Installation in a 58-60

Can't remember if I left the shifter on or not. I think that I tried it but as the above poster indicates, you scratch up a lot of the undercarriage. Also, you have the clutch mechanism/linkage on that side. And leaving the shifter on requires a really steep angle to get the whole thing in. I had done a few clutches and trans before the vette and working on your back in a garage trying to do all the clutch- bellhousing-trans stuff was a PITA. So I wanted to do all the attaching, aligning and torquing, out side and then put the unit in as one. Adding the shifter and clutch linkage is relatively easy on your back under the car. They aren't that heavy and there is some room to work on them. By the way you will definately have to remove the rear trans mount.

[Stewart A.]

Re: T-10 Installation in a 58-60

Mark I had my radiator, and support panel out, I had an engine crane with an adjustable plate on top of the chain so that I could really get some tilt on the motor. Take the trans cross member out. I wasn't really that fussed if I scratched the engine bay because it was a temporary driver. I found it was very, very difficult in getting the shifter on after the motor was in, there is a nasty long bolt that I spent around 1 -2 hours getting in. Now my tranny was a none original Saginaw so maybe the T 10 might be easier ? I think I had both engine mounts off as well. I never scratched anything going in maybe it was a fluke. The linkages is easy to get on after the implant Mark so I wouldn't worry about that, just the shifter was a major problem. You need at least 3 people to help you. One on the crane one either side guiding it in. I would come and help you but it's a wee far to come for the weekend. Oh and lots of rags to put on parts of the motor so no scratches.
Stewy

[Stewart A.]

Re: T-10 Installation in a 58-60

Mark don't forget the Archive, I have seen this topic discussed a few times in the last year. There should be some valuable info in there on this instillation.