Painting C2

[James H.]

Re: Painting C2

Walter
May I interject. Please spend a lot of time relaying to your painter what kind of finish product (your car) you want to achieve. If you want a perfect black slick finish or a finish that represents the finish from the 60"s, the difference has to start with how you sanded the fiberglass. It is very hard to not over replicate (slick out) the finishes of the fast-track lacquer of the 60's.
Good Luck

[Mark F.]

Re: Painting C2

Walter
May I interject. Please spend a lot of time relaying to your painter what kind of finish product (your car) you want to achieve. If you want a perfect black slick finish or a finish that represents the finish from the 60"s, the difference has to start with how you sanded the fiberglass. It is very hard to not over replicate (slick out) the finishes of the fast-track lacquer of the 60's. Good Luck

sandsanded with 280-grit sandpaper to prepare it for primer. Any pits or minor surface imperfections were repaired with filler (called "putty rub") and sanded smooth.

PS-1: dry-sand entire body and quick-dry pit-fill as required, blowoff and tack-rag to remove sanding dust. Per L Galloway (5/13/2022 book) - Hand sand joints w/ 80 grit silicon carbide @ 400-500 RPM; followed by light sanding of entire surface with 180 grit to aid primer adhesion.

PS-9:Wet-sand entire body with 360-grit paper to smooth finish. Parts on body floor not wet-sandsanding and handling without causing surface imperfections.

PS-14:After first color bake, body was moved into transfer/prep area where minor surface imperfections were hand-sanded and tacked off prior to re-coat; 427 hood stingers, lock pillars, and areas requiring contrasting interior color painting were masked in this area.

FPR-1:All units proceed to Final Paint Repair on a dual-strand flat-top conveyor similar to the one on the Final Line; any imperfections from the assembly process are repaired by 400-grit dry or wet machine and hand sand