1992-1996 LT1 Front Crank Hub R&R?

[Dave P.]

I worked on it. Spent over 50 hours resealing every location that oil can leak from other than the rear main seal. So far it doesn't leak.

I was asking for tips on removing the front hub, and received some, but no one mentioned that you have to use a different set up on the LT1 hub than you do for a SBC balancer. I broke my hub, cost a couple hundred and a week of time. There's another thread about the hub and puller.

[Keith B.]

Re: 1992-1996 LT1 Front Crank Hub R&R?

when I had trouble with the front hub on my 94 LT-1 I never had to remove any of those parts listed. it is not a fun job by any means. It sounds like you would be further ahead by removing the engine

[Terry M.]

Re: 1992-1996 LT1 Front Crank Hub R&R?

Dave I know you know this nomenclature, but others will not.

Contents: Y-body = Corvette
B-body = Caprice/Impala SS
D-body = Cadillac

Even with all the miles I have accumulated on all the B-body Gen II LT1s I have had, I never had to remove the crank hub on any of them. On the other hand as daily drivers a minor leak is no big deal. Don't all Chevys mark their spot?

Of course the B-body (and D-body I presume) offer far more accessibility to those parts than the Y-body. Just having the rear hinged hood on the B & D body is a decided advantage, but on the B-body there is several more inches of clearance between the engine and the core support than on the Y-body.

From observation of other B-body owners the tool to install the crank hub is essential. Trying to pull it on with the "old school" bolt threads is a recipe for disaster. Something to ask: Is a grove worn in the hub? I believe the part to force a sleeve over the hub (Like is used on vibration dampers from 1955 is available).

What has always puzzled me is that there is no keyway for the hub to the crankshaft. Once removed how does one reinstall the hub in the same orientation to allow the vibration damper to be properly balanced. I am missing something there.

I believe there is a Kent Moore tool to align the timing cover to the cylinder case -- if you get as far as to remove the timing cover. I think I have that tool. If I am not mixing this up with the LS motors, give me aa shout and I'll see if I can dig it out with the help of a Kent Moore number.

Lastly: It seems to me if you intend to replace all those gaskets and the oil pan -- removing the engine would make the job a lot easier. Removing the oil pan for a look at the main bearings is wise. If the crankshaft is loose in the bearings a new seal at the front and/or rear is not going to last. An inspection of the oil pump would be prudent while you are there. Of course, that begins the "while I am there" syndrome. That is another whole rabbit hole. I am sure you know where that leads, as do many others reading this. We all fall victim to that from time to time.

Keep is posted, and good luck.

[Terry M.]

Re: 1992-1996 LT1 Front Crank Hub R&R?

Thank You Keith and Terry.


I can't stand leaks. Prior to a couple weeks ago, this engine had a couple of seeps, but never left a spot. And remarkably, last year I drove it a little over 9,000 miles between oil changes and didn't have to add any make-up oil. This is new, and it's messy.


I can answer this. It is in the FSM, and a friend that owns a B-Body SS, and his brother has a 4th Gen F-Body happened to call this afternoon. He was the one I remember saying "putting the hub on is a PITA". What he said this afternoon is that the PITA part was there is no keyway. He said it pressed on like any other damper. I guess he had difficulty getting it oriented correctly.

What you do is put the engine on TDC #1/#6. (Verify by checking piston position in #1). Remove the balancer. There is a cast-in arrow on the hub spoke that should be at 12:00 with #1 at TDC. Mark the hub to case. The FSM cautions against moving the crankshaft prior to reinstalling the hub. (Put the 6-speed in 4th and set the park brake?) I don't feel this is critical, checking piston position by probing should be well close enough.



You may be thinking of a little "cone" tool that goes over the water pump drive spline to facilitate getting the seal over the lip of the shaft. I ruined that seal on my first attempt without the tool. My second attempt used a lip-seal installer from an automatic trans kit. My SS buddy has me covered, his dad made him one in the machine shop at Northrop. Thanks for the offer.



As I said, I hate leaks. I want to seal this thing up the way I do things, and it should be good for as long as I'm going to keep this pile. Tom and Linda Barr, my good car-friend in SoCal, and my clients that have to listen to my latest trials and tribulations with this car all say "SELL IT!". It won't stay fixed. I have no qualms about doing bearings, oil pump, etc. If I remove the engine, I'll go crazy with doing things that I really don't need to do because I should just sell it. I want to drive it to Vegas Regional in April, so I have a few weeks. We'll see. Thanks.

Vegas in April?? Don't set yourself goals like the "reality" shows. I know you will do the job once and right. Those are enough for goals.

Puzzeling that this leak suddenly began. There must be a root cause.

[Keith B.]

Re: 1992-1996 LT1 Front Crank Hub R&R?

Puzzeling that this leak suddenly began. There must be a root cause.

no its an LT-1 they all leak. I chased oil leaks on my old 94 and never fixed it. just slowed them down

[Mark E.]

Re: 1992-1996 LT1 Front Crank Hub R&R?

An economics perspective-

How much $, time, and aggravation will this cost? And how much more work does it need? Paint, interior, trim, suspension,...

Instead, consider selling as-is and buying a #1 or #2 condition low mileage '92-96. $15k-$20k gets a nice one with under 25k miles.

After 20 months, no leaks on my $20k '93 with 18k miles.

[Mark E.]

Re: 1992-1996 LT1 Front Crank Hub R&R?

Got it, and understand the concept of a beater to drive without worry. My point is you can get a really nice C4 at beater prices... in essence, have your cake and eat it too.

With my '93, as you know, I already replaced the distributor with a vented one which will hopefully last a few years (I discovered R&R is involved but not difficult). I also procured an extra ECM which I swapped out to make sure it works. So hopefully I covered the two Achilles heels of these cars. I see many with over 100k miles, so we know at least that's possible...

Since I acquired one, I've grown to admire the LT1/4. Reliable, rugged old-school small block architecture with technology to perform like a big block while getting 28mpg highway. What a super fun car to drive! And in my opinion (for what that's worth), the last handsome generation.