69 Idler Assembly, Alternator Pulley and PS Pump Questions

[Michael C.]

Mine is a 69, 427/390 with A/C and PS. I've seen some previous posts referring to the idler as a "pulley," however mine is definitely a "wheel" with no groove. I'm sure it's original. What are the correct finishes for the wheel, bracket and the spacer (approx. 2 1/8" long x 3/4" OD)? Also, what is the correct finish for the adjustment stud (bolts into water pump)?

The alternator was replaced many years ago, but I believe the pulley is original. I find the judging manual description a bit confusing. I haven't removed the pulley yet, but it appears to be a two piece assembly. No numbers stamped anywhere. Single groove. The fins on the fan have a single stiffening groove. I think the fan was painted years ago. What are the correct finishes? Any tips for removing the pulley?

Regarding the PS pump: I'm also confident it's original, but it appears the reservoir and shaft seals are leaking. I believe the pump itself is fine. Any tips for replacing the seals? Links to useful instructions and/or YouTube videos? AutoZone claims to have a Duralast seal kit. Would anyone go their kit? If not, what source?

Thanks, Mike
Alternator.jpg

[Joe L.]

Re: 69 Idler Assembly, Alternator Pulley and PS Pump Questions

Mine is a 69, 427/390 with A/C and PS. I've seen some previous posts referring to the idler as a "pulley," however mine is definitely a "wheel" with no groove. I'm sure it's original. What are the correct finishes for the wheel, bracket and the spacer (approx. 2 1/8" long x 3/4" OD)? Also, what is the correct finish for the adjustment stud (bolts into water pump)?

The alternator was replaced many years ago, but I believe the pulley is original. I find the judging manual description a bit confusing. I haven't removed the pulley yet, but it appears to be a two piece assembly. No numbers stamped anywhere. Single groove. The fins on the fan have a single stiffening groove. I think the fan was painted years ago. What are the correct finishes? Any tips for removing the pulley?

Regarding the PS pump: I'm also confident it's original, but it appears the reservoir and shaft seals are leaking. I believe the pump itself is fine. Any tips for replacing the seals? Links to useful instructions and/or YouTube videos? AutoZone claims to have a Duralast seal kit. Would anyone go their kit? If not, what source?

Thanks, Mike
[ATTACH=CONFIG]101970[/ATTACH]

Mike------


The pulley that you describe is correct for 1969-74 big block idler assemblies. Only 1968 big block idler assemblies used a traditional grooved pulley. The pulley you have should be zinc plated. The bracket should be semi-gloss black. The stud should be black phosphate.

Your alternator pulley is correct for your application. This is a one piece pulley. The fan is a separate part. Neither should be painted black. The fan and pulley should both be zinc plated. I cannot tell if your fan is correct based on what I can see of it.

From what I can see of your alternator drive end case half, this is not a correct 1969 alternator.

[Larry M.]

Re: 69 Idler Assembly, Alternator Pulley and PS Pump Questions

Mike,

GM seal kit 5688044 should stop your leaks. I honestly can't tell if it's still available from GM, but I suspect so as it covers millions of applications over many years. I see many available on line.

You should be able to do the job without a video. I did it in 1988 having never done it before. Just take apart, clean all components and replace all the seals as you reassemble. No leaks from ours since then (25,000 miles ago).

Larry

[Michael C.]

Re: 69 Idler Assembly, Alternator Pulley and PS Pump Questions

Thanks Joe and Larry. I’ll track down a seal kit for the pump and give it a try.

[Joe L.]

Re: 69 Idler Assembly, Alternator Pulley and PS Pump Questions

Mike,

GM seal kit 5688044 should stop your leaks. I honestly can't tell if it's still available from GM, but I suspect so as it covers millions of applications over many years. I see many available on line.

You should be able to do the job without a video. I did it in 1988 having never done it before. Just take apart, clean all components and replace all the seals as you reassemble. No leaks from ours since then (25,000 miles ago).

Larry

Larry------

The GM #5688044 kit was discontinued in July, 1986 and replaced by GM #7848522. The latter is now discontinued without supersession. An Edelman 7910 should do the trick, though.

[Richard M.]

Re: 69 Idler Assembly, Alternator Pulley and PS Pump Questions

Mine is a 69, 427/390 with A/C and PS. I've seen some previous posts referring to the idler as a "pulley," however mine is definitely a "wheel" with no groove. I'm sure it's original. What are the correct finishes for the wheel, bracket and the spacer (approx. 2 1/8" long x 3/4" OD)? Also, what is the correct finish for the adjustment stud (bolts into water pump)?

The alternator was replaced many years ago, but I believe the pulley is original. I find the judging manual description a bit confusing. I haven't removed the pulley yet, but it appears to be a two piece assembly. No numbers stamped anywhere. Single groove. The fins on the fan have a single stiffening groove. I think the fan was painted years ago. What are the correct finishes? Any tips for removing the pulley?

Regarding the PS pump: I'm also confident it's original, but it appears the reservoir and shaft seals are leaking. I believe the pump itself is fine. Any tips for replacing the seals? Links to useful instructions and/or YouTube videos? AutoZone claims to have a Duralast seal kit. Would anyone go their kit? If not, what source?

Thanks, Mike

Mike, To remove your C60 alternator pulley it's easiest to use a impact gun with proper socket. If you don't have a impact gun you'll need a large Allen wrench to fit the shaft hex end and a socket with a hex end to hold that with a wrench. This is needed for that C60 type pulley configuration. I have a 3/4" drive socket set and the sockets have external hex ends for a wrench. I forget the sizes though.

'67 Non C60 pulley nut can be held with a wrench. Wrong pulley configuration on this one.
PB230061.jpg

Correct pulley on right(reproduction). As you can see with either one there is enough room for a combination wrench to hold the nut while using the Allen wrench on the armature shaft.
P1160057.jpg

As I recall there is no keyway on the shaft. Pulley is held with torque against the shaft boss.
PB220004.jpg

With correct pulley and to show how the nut has access for wrench for Alllen wrench usage.
P1160113.jpg

Yours has a very deep access area for the nut. Needs a different remove/install method or impact gun. It's important to torque nut to proper spec(I forget but in CSM)

[Joe L.]

Re: 69 Idler Assembly, Alternator Pulley and PS Pump Questions

Mike, To remove your C60 alternator pulley it's easiest to use a impact gun with proper socket. If you don't have a impact gun you'll need a large Allen wrench to fit the shaft hex end and a socket with a hex end to hold that with a wrench. This is needed for that C60 type pulley configuration. I have a 3/4" drive socket set and the sockets have external hex ends for a wrench. I forget the sizes though.

'67 Non C60 pulley nut can be held with a wrench. Wrong pulley configuration on this one.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]101972[/ATTACH]

Correct pulley on right(reproduction). As you can see with either one there is enough room for a combination wrench to hold the nut while using the Allen wrench on the armature shaft.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]101974[/ATTACH]

As I recall there is no keyway on the shaft. Pulley is held with torque against the shaft boss.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]101976[/ATTACH]

With correct pulley and to show how the nut has access for wrench for Alllen wrench usage.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]101975[/ATTACH]

Yours has a very deep access area for the nut. Needs a different remove/install method or impact gun. It's important to torque nut to proper spec(I forget but in CSM)

Rich------


The pulley in your next to last photo is not correct for P/S applications.

[Michael C.]

Re: 69 Idler Assembly, Alternator Pulley and PS Pump Questions

Joe, what is the correct finish for the idler assembly spacer (shown below)?
Several suppliers I checked online list the Edelmann 7910 as "out of stock." RockAuto.com offers the Edelmann 7918 and others as a replacement. Would you choose one of those?
I have an alternator I removed from the car many years ago. It's number doesn't match the AIM, but it's identical in appearance as the one on in my original photo. Can you tell me anything about it?
Thanks again.
IdlerAssembly.jpgPS-SealKits.jpgOldAlternator.jpg

[Richard M.]

Re: 69 Idler Assembly, Alternator Pulley and PS Pump Questions

Rich------


The pulley in your next to last photo is not correct for P/S applications.

Joe, Agree but that car doesn't have N40. Was just showing a edge profile view how the nut is accessible.

Rich

[Joe L.]

Re: 69 Idler Assembly, Alternator Pulley and PS Pump Questions

Joe, what is the correct finish for the idler assembly spacer (shown below)?
Several suppliers I checked online list the Edelmann 7910 as "out of stock." RockAuto.com offers the Edelmann 7918 and others as a replacement. Would you choose one of those?
I have an alternator I removed from the car many years ago. It's number doesn't match the AIM, but it's identical in appearance as the one on in my original photo. Can you tell me anything about it?
Thanks again.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]101984[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]101985[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]101986[/ATTACH]

Michael------


Somebody may have seen that date and figured they had an alternator perfect for a Corvette built in later 1969. They were wrong. The alternator part number 1103058 was used on 1979 Buicks and Pontiacs and this alternator was manufactured on June 20, 1979. I didn't need to see the part number to know the alternator was not correct for a 1969. Even from the little bit I could see of it, the drive end case is not configured like a 1969-70 alternator.

As far as the power steering pump kits go, the Edelman 7918 should be fine. The 7910 contains a few additional parts but you may not need them. While I always prefer GM parts, keep in mind that, as far as I know, GM internal divisions never made seals or gaskets.