rusty bolts

[Mel S.]

I am doing a body off on my 66 with 27,800 original miles. I have reviewed Nolan Adams "body lift" CD many times. i have sprayed rust buster on ALL of the bolts that have to come off for at least 2 weeks. They do not want to break loose when i tried them. I really do not want to break them off and have to deal with that issue. My next thought was to apply a little heat on the bolts/nuts. Any thoughts?
Mel

[Keith B.]

Re: rusty bolts

Are you using any air tools? The aid of a impact helps loosen them

[Edward J.]

Re: rusty bolts

Mel using a torch on body bolts in not a good idea, if your removing the bumper bolts should be ok. Keep flame away from fiber glass. I have removed a few mid year body's and have used 1/2 drive and 3/8 drive ratchet's.and impact guns on the bumper bolts( with care).

[Michael J.]

Re: rusty bolts

I have used Freeze-Off for rusted stuck bolts. Comes in an aerosol can.

[Mel S.]

Re: rusty bolts

I have all different air tools but did not want to put too much torque on the fasteners and possibly shear them
thanks
Mel

[Mel S.]

Re: rusty bolts

OK and thanks

[Mel S.]

Re: rusty bolts

Ok and thanks

[Gary C.]

Re: rusty bolts

Kroil works much better, Doc swears by Torq CB by Kimball Midwest

[Gary S.]

Re: rusty bolts

Try a Mini Ductor II induction heater. Heats only what the heat coil is wrapped around. So you can heat only the bolt without the transfer of heat to fiberglass, rubber or other things you don't want to get hot. Look it up on Youtube and Amazon. Expensive to buy though but wonderful for fiberglass cars. Find someone who has and borrow, or rent one. I broke several original bolts during disassembly until I borrowed a friend's Mini. It will turn the nut red hot but nothing else gets hot.

[Terry M.]

Re: rusty bolts

Be sure when using a penetrate to get it on the threads and not the head of the fastener. Same with heat. Either applied to the head of the bolt will be counter productive. On some fasteners the threaded portion is not accessible. That situation poses a dilemma that is difficult to overcome.

You can make your own penetrate using a 50/50 mix of Automatic Transmission Fluid and acetone. Keep it away from paint though. Leave it work for some time, days even.

[Philip C.]

Re: rusty bolts

I am doing a body off on my 66 with 27,800 original miles. I have reviewed Nolan Adams "body lift" CD many times. i have sprayed rust buster on ALL of the bolts that have to come off for at least 2 weeks. They do not want to break loose when i tried them. I really do not want to break them off and have to deal with that issue. My next thought was to apply a little heat on the bolts/nuts. Any thoughts?
Mel

Hi Mel it all depends on your skill level. The 27,800 miles doesn't mean any thing as to the condition of the hardware. I don't want to sound condescending but maybe you should get some help because it sounds like you need it. A little bit of knowledge or confidence sometimes is a dangerous thing. Taking things apart that don't to come apart, heat is always your friend. Phil 8063

[Edward J.]

Re: rusty bolts

Mel , One trick is to start by trying to crack the nuts /bolts free, any amount will help, and work back and forth slowly while spraying the threads, There is not magic sauce that removes rusted/frozen bolts, its patience that wins. I have been working on cars 40+ years in the northeast so I know rust, heating nuts and bolts red hot is truly the only way. But with fiberglass all around you, its easy to damage. bumper brackets, exhaust and hardware,some of the body bolts and nuts will be ok , bolts behind and in front rear wheels are sometimes the ones to give you a problem if you can see the caged nuts from underneath some heat may help, but this is a warning, the bird cage will help protect fiberglass of some areas, be careful of those bolts on the front and rear bumper that thread through the fenders and quarters.

[David H.]

Re: rusty bolts

Mel,

Caged nuts, i.e. for #2 & #3 body mount bolts, have very poor access for penetrant or heat. Those frame mounts are well covered by bird cage, so access from below is very difficult, and access from above (i.e. soaking bolt head and hoping penetrant makes its way down to nut) is problematic.

If caged nut is rusted to bolt, then force needed to loosen bolt will likely cause nut to "spin" in cage. Normal removal is impossible then.

I tried to soak penetrant from above - that didn't work on one of my bolts (#3 passenger side) and nut spun in cage. Resorted to wrapping one end of a hack saw blade with duct tape and cutting through that bolt as accessed from in front of rear tire. (Helps to pretend you're breaking out of prison)

You might try getting penetrant on those caged nuts by accessing them from rear - go between bird cage and frame.

Other thread responses have good suggestions for penetrant.

Dave

[Keith W.]

Re: rusty bolts

Mel - not teaching you to suck eggs, but an old trick I've used a few times is to try and tighten the nut up if you get any-movement, spray that WD40 on or another make - go and have a coffee and then try to un tighten - using air tools can sometimes help - good luck

Plan B - use a small dremel tool to cut through that bolt

[Kenneth B.]

Re: rusty bolts

Kroil works much better, Doc swears by Torq CB by Kimball Midwest

I agree. Kroil is the best. We worked on many perment molds that had rusted bolts from the heat & cooling lines. 90% would come loss after soaking in Kroil. It's not cheap.