1963 steering box rebuild / Almost. - NCRS Discussion Boards

1963 steering box rebuild / Almost.

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  • Richard G.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • July 31, 1984
    • 1715

    1963 steering box rebuild / Almost.

    Hello to all.
    I started rebuilding my steering box today. I had ordered the rebuild kit and was ready, or so I thought.
    The steering box is easy enough to work on, at least to get apart, with the instructions in the service manual. No instructions were included in the kit. Most guys can take stuff apart and this is not as complicated as is first looks.


    After getting the steering box apart and measured the top bushing, it had .003 clearance between the shaft and busing. I thought that might be over specification so I removed the bushing using a blind hole puller. It came out kind of hard and obviously had a significant press fit. I knew I couldn't measure the replacement bushing and know what the size would be, after the install, because of the interference fit shrinks the inside diameter of the bushing. What I could do is measure the bushing wall thickness. My thought was it would give me some idea of the wear in the original bushings and confirm the fitment of the replacement. Well what an eye opener. The replacement bushing wall thickness varied over .0025 on one bushing and over .003 on the other. I have no idea how they were made but I can guess. The OD was round, it appears the part was moved to another piece of equipment to bore the inside diameter. These are sold bronze not like the rolled factory bushings. They also have a single, straight, oil grove on the ID. Just no way these are going to work correctly. I immediately wished I would have measured the new bushings before pulling the old bushing from its blind hole.

    It is now very obvious why Gary builds or has custom bushing manufactured. As I now wish I would have let well enough alone, as it functioned fine! It did need the grease changed that's from sure. The old grease smelled up the shop. I noted some pitting on on one side of one gear . Maybe I will post a picture later. In retrospect I should have completed an inspection and changed the grease, called it a day. The replacement bushing OD is .001 smaller than the bushing I removed. Even if it fit the housing like is should , the bore (ID) would be out of specification. I know this because of the wall thickness measurements. With the straight oil groove, not the X style of the original, it might be be impossible to hone to size after the install. The bushing from the kit pictured below:

    I can build the bushing out of 660 bronze, and that will be my likely solution. A second option is to purchase a commercial bushing. I don't understand why a commercial bushings were not included in the kit. I am going to leave the large lower busing(s) intact as they seem to be worn only a .001 or two. With a little more research I found Gary's recommendation of .002 (loose) fit between bushing and the shaft. It appears the top bushing was only worn .001 after almost 100K miles. The lower bushing have more load on them but more lube also. I will have to measure them to confirm.

    My hope is the seals are manufactured to better tolerances than the bushings.

    I am perfectly capable of completing this job. Part of me is stubborn and I like to "do it myself" as much as possible. For me this is not a aptitude or tool issue as much as it is a parts issue. Or better put, a POS part issue. BTW the replacement roller bearings were marked China. My originals are fine and likely better, even in used condition, than the new replacements.

    If you don't have a lathe to build the pusher plates for installing and removing the bushings, the patience to manufacture of modify existing parts and a suitable means to get a bushing out of a blind hole, I would recommending just sending your box to Gary and let him deal with the various parts and fitment issues. Otherwise purchase a new gasket, seals and clean oil and complete the inspection yourself. If the steering box requires anything else, sent it to Gary Ramadei for rebuilding.

    My kit was old, as it had all three bushings. The picture of the current kit only has the two lower bushing in the picture. Possibly they have address the bushing issues. I dont recommend purchasing parts till they are needed. Then you my possibly be able to return them.

    Tired of poor fitting part. My rant is over.
    Rick
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Richard G.; April 8, 2017, 10:51 AM.
  • Joe L.
    Beyond Control Poster
    • February 1, 1988
    • 43219

    #2
    Re: 1963 stearing box rebuild / Almost.

    Originally posted by Richard Geier (7745)
    Hello to all.
    I started rebuilding my steering box today. I had ordered the rebuild kit and was ready, or so I thought.
    The steering box is easy enough to work on, at least to get apart, with the instructions in the service manual. No instructions were included in the kit. Most guys can take stuff apart and this is not as complicated as is first looks.


    After getting the steering box apart and measured the top bushing, it had .003 clearance between the shaft and busing. I thought that might be over specification so I removed the bushing using a blind hole puller. It came out kind of hard and obviously had a significant press fit. I knew I couldn't measure the replacement bushing and know what the size would be, after the install, because of the interference fit shrinks the inside diameter of the bushing. What I could do is measure the bushing wall thickness. My thought was it would give me some idea of the wear in the original bushings and confirm the fitment of the replacement. Well what an eye opener. The replacement bushing wall thickness varied over .0025 on one bushing and over .003 on the other. I have no idea how they were made but I can guess. The OD was round, it appears the part was moved to another piece of equipment to bore the inside diameter. These are sold bronze not like the rolled factory bushings. They also have a single, straight, oil grove on the ID. Just no way these are going to work correctly. I immediately wished I would have measured the new bushings before pulling the old bushing from its blind hole.

    It is now very obvious why Gary builds or has custom bushing manufactured. As I now wish I would have let well enough alone, as it functioned fine! It did need the grease changed that's from sure. The old grease smelled up the shop. I noted some pitting on on one side of one gear . Maybe I will post a picture later. In retrospect I should have completed an inspection and changed the grease, called it a day. The replacement bushing OD is .001 smaller than the bushing I removed. Even if it fit the housing like is should , the bore (ID) would be out of specification. I know this because of the wall thickness measurements. With the straight oil groove, not the X style of the original, it might be be impossible to hone to size after the install. The bushing from the kit pictured below:

    I can build the bushing out of 660 bronze, and that will be my likely solution. A second option is to purchase a commercial bushing. I don't understand why a commercial bushings were not included in the kit. I am going to leave the large lower busing(s) intact as they seem to be worn only a .001 or two. With a little more research I found Gary's recommendation of .002 (loose) fit between bushing and the shaft. It appears the top bushing was only worn .001 after almost 100K miles. The lower bushing have more load on them but more lube also. I will have to measure them to confirm.

    My hope is the seals are manufactured to better tolerances than the bushings.

    I am perfectly capable of completing this job. Part of me is stubborn and I like to "do it myself" as much as possible. For me this is not a aptitude or tool issue as much as it is a parts issue. Or better put, a POS part issue. BTW the replacement roller bearings were marked China. My originals are fine and likely better, even in used condition, than the new replacements.

    If you don't have a lathe to build the pusher plates for installing and removing the bushings, the patience to manufacture of modify existing parts and a suitable means to get a bushing out of a blind hole, I would recommending just sending your box to Gary and let him deal with the various parts and fitment issues. Otherwise purchase a new gasket, seals and clean oil and complete the inspection yourself. If the steering box requires anything else, sent it to Gary Ramadei for rebuilding.

    My kit was old, as it had all three bushings. The picture of the current kit only has the two lower bushing in the picture. Possibly they have address the bushing issues. I dont recommend purchasing parts till they are needed. Then you my possibly be able to return them.

    Tired of poor fitting part. My rant is over.
    Rick

    Rick------


    If you could find an NOS GM #266316 bushing, you could reduce its length to serve as the cover bushing. The 266316 is the lower pitman shaft bushing but it's the same as the upper bushing except for length. GM never sold the upper bushing separately; it was supplied only as part of the cover assembly. Apparently, GM considered that field servicing of the cover bushing was not advisable. You found out why they came to this conclusion.

    I agree with you, though, that you should have left well enough alone as far as replacing the cover bushing. These things do not usually need to be replaced.
    In Appreciation of John Hinckley

    Comment

    • Richard G.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • July 31, 1984
      • 1715

      #3
      Re: 1963 stearing box rebuild / Almost.

      On member asked for a picture of the top of the box.
      I failed to find where I could add a picture to a email so I am posting it here.

      Attached Files

      Comment

      • Gary R.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • April 1, 1989
        • 1798

        #4
        Re: 1963 stearing box rebuild / Almost.

        Rick
        That is a 63 cover no question. So now you know the joys of these boxes. What you should see is what some of the expert vendors ship out to customers! I have and have the pictures of the work to back it up and it's really bad. I have been sent boxes with rag joints welded to the input, the worm nut flipped upside down( a lot of these being sold like this today), the teeth welded and ground down. ALL BAD and all required new gears. There are 3 places that have new gears today. Myself and the two I supplied. The others don't have them and I can only guess don't really care.

        You are doing a good job but I never use those kits you bought. I place those kit bushings in my scrap barrel if someone sends me a kit with a box. Check to see if the gasket fits or needs to be trimmed. I change every cover bushing as well but I make up my own bushings. 002 side play is ok and a spec I referenced online over the years but I really fit the bushings to each sector shaft for 001".

        The ball bearings are like you have and they are fine but you should check the preload to see if the radius on the ball screw is good or bad. Many times the radius is bad from being etched from corrosion in the box. A good ball screw and bearings will not vary more then 1 in/lb where a worn one will jump all over the place. If the worm passes that test then you have to see how the lash is and if its at true center. Most likely it isn't, many boxes with original gears vary up to 10* from true center and high center. I like to get them as close as possible. When reusing the original gears this isn't as critical because they were setup to the car but if you swap in used gears, another vette box, or new gears chances are the steering wheel will not be in the same position and the spoke not at 6 o'clock.

        You can machine 660 bronze bushings, I have in the past but cut in the oil grooves. Keep in mind the sector never rotates 360* or at any RPM, where as 660 is idea for a motor shaft I prefer and use oilite but I don't machine them because it closes up the oil pores and that's the purpose of using them. I'll be the first to say the shaft most likely will never heat the bushing enough to draw out the oil impregnated in the bushings I still use them.
        Last edited by Gary R.; April 8, 2017, 05:39 PM.

        Comment

        • Richard G.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • July 31, 1984
          • 1715

          #5
          Re: 1963 stearing box rebuild / Almost.

          I certainly have a new respect for your work!

          More to come as I work through this. I am so tired of poor fitting parts.

          Comment

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