Vacuum reading at idle 63-327-340 HP

[Timothy B.]

Re: Vacuum reading at idle 63-327-340 HP

I don't understand why you don't recommend removing the springs to set total timing. I have done this many times and it works great, the engine only needs to rev to 1500 or so for the weights to be fully out.

There is no way I would to stick my head or hand near a fan at those high rpm's, the last thing I need is for something else to hit me in the head and my hands shake sometimes. :-)

[Duke W.]

Re: Vacuum reading at idle 63-327-340 HP

That's a lot of extra work, plus I like to determine the start point of the centrifugal, then take readings every 500 revs from 1000 to the end point so I can characterize the shape of the curve.

I've been doing it this way for decades, so I'm used to it, but I prefer if the curve is aggressive so I don't have to rev the engine over 5000.

Duke

[Duke W.]

Re: Vacuum reading at idle 63-327-340 HP

My 67 300hp distributor has a 355 V/A control and it's specs are 15*@12" so the B-26 is probably the aftermarket replacement.

I recommend the 15" B22 for manuals, but the 12" B26 for automatics because they pull less vacuum idling in Drive.

Again, use the least aggressive VAC that meets the Two-Inch Rule.

BTW, I have never gotten reliable idle vacuum for a base engine or optional engine with the base engine cam and automatic transmission. Can anyone out there help out - idle vacuum idling at 500 in Drive.

Duke

[Duke W.]

Re: Vacuum reading at idle 63-327-340 HP

So, Duke, does the inaccuracy of the marks on the tab also apply to my '62 340 hp 327?
Thanks in "advance"

If the engine has the same 8" torsional damper as later SHP/FI engines then the answer is likely yes.

It's easy to test the accuracy of the tab with a dial back timing light.

Duke