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Removing original ball joints

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  • Kenn S.
    Very Frequent User
    • September 10, 2009
    • 173

    Removing original ball joints

    I've searched a lot in the Forum archives, and most discussions revolve around which ball joint is more "original" than another. A good discussion, but moot if you can't get the originals off in the first place.

    I started drilling the upper control arm's from underneath, but that's a bear since the drill bit will walk, and I don't know the diameter of the rivet anyway. It's more likely I'll miss and widen the hole...don't want to do that.

    So I tried grinding the head from above...ground it down to the plate, and I still can't pop it out (hammer and punch).

    At this point I figure I'm probably doing it wrong. Any advice? A frustrating but good opportunity to learn...

    (A reasonable response would be to send it out...Bair's does them, I think? Used to, anyway? Problem is I want to clean the control arm up, paint it, and all of that...don't want to install ball joints on nasty control arms...)
    -Kenn
    1970 LS-5
    1970 350/300
    1980 L-48
    2004 LS-1
  • Edward J.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • September 15, 2008
    • 6941

    #2
    Re: Removing original ball joints

    Ken, the original ball joint rivets are easier if you grind the rivet from below on the uppers, the rivet is pressed and when this happens it expands in the ball joint casing upper or lower.
    New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.

    Comment

    • Joe L.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • February 1, 1988
      • 43219

      #3
      Re: Removing original ball joints

      Originally posted by Kenn Scribner (50830)
      I've searched a lot in the Forum archives, and most discussions revolve around which ball joint is more "original" than another. A good discussion, but moot if you can't get the originals off in the first place.

      I started drilling the upper control arm's from underneath, but that's a bear since the drill bit will walk, and I don't know the diameter of the rivet anyway. It's more likely I'll miss and widen the hole...don't want to do that.

      So I tried grinding the head from above...ground it down to the plate, and I still can't pop it out (hammer and punch).

      At this point I figure I'm probably doing it wrong. Any advice? A frustrating but good opportunity to learn...

      (A reasonable response would be to send it out...Bair's does them, I think? Used to, anyway? Problem is I want to clean the control arm up, paint it, and all of that...don't want to install ball joints on nasty control arms...)


      Kenn-----

      Keep grinding on the upper side. If you grind down into the flange it's no problem as you aren't going to reuse the ball joints anyway. You should be able to drive them out with a hammer and punch. It will probably take a good whack, though. The rivet size for the upper ball joints is 1/4". The rivet size for the lower ball joints is 5/16".
      In Appreciation of John Hinckley

      Comment

      • Kenn S.
        Very Frequent User
        • September 10, 2009
        • 173

        #4
        Re: Removing original ball joints

        Thanks, guys! I'll grind away...
        -Kenn
        1970 LS-5
        1970 350/300
        1980 L-48
        2004 LS-1

        Comment

        • Tracy C.
          Expired
          • July 31, 2003
          • 2739

          #5
          Re: Removing original ball joints

          Kenn, Grind to the surface of the ball joint flange. Drill a bit farther from the top and then pry the ball joint up and off. Then grind the rivets flush to the control arm and punch them out from top side.

          good luck

          Comment

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